YEAR FIVE: THE YEAR OF THE LIGHT

Happy Anniversary to me. 

Yes, I am now embarking on year five of my career. Who would believe it? My anniversary always creeps up on me and how I remember is when I am about to do my taxes (yeah, I am one of those always rushing to the post office on the 15th trying to make the deadline). That’s how artists are.

But some other things have come to my attention as well over the past five years:

• I haven’t been in a serious relationship in the past five years
• I’ve let my body go to pot in the past five years (believe it or not, I used to look a lot like the models I shoot).
• I’ve been financially struggling for the past five years (every dime I have ever made went back into my artistry in forms of studio rent, insurance, lights, cameras, retouching tablets, lenses, portfolios, prints, frames, modifiers, lunch dates, retouching lessons, computers, rams and the list goes on)
• I haven’t had a real vacation in the past five years

And guess what? I don’t regret any of it.

But some amazing things have happened as well:

• My lighting seminar “Light Is Light” is making some noise (I am being asked to take the show on the road)
• My first lighting book is complete and in the works for creating a DVD tutorial
• About to appear on some major television shows.
• Shot more campaigns (in hair, beauty and fashion)
• My name and photography are now recognizable from coast to coast and in Europe

So, yeah, I have to admit making some major sacrifices in my life for my art has gotten me where I am today. Am I appearing on billboards at the Crossroads of the World? Not yet, but I feel deep down inside that yes, one day it will. Just wait and see.

But the most important thing that has occurred in this journey that has struck a nerve is this: my ability to transform lives. I’ve shown models their true beauty even when they didn’t see it. I’ve inspired photographers to better their crafts. I’ve even help launch careers in some of the unlikeliest of people. You never know who you touch with your artistry and when I get an email from some unknown person saying: “Your work has inspired me, one day I want to be like you.” That makes me feel good inside. That I can take a photograph that will move someone so much that they want to be just like me, like I want to be just like Herb Ritts, or Bruce Weber, or Richard Avedon.

All the long, laborious nights of staying up late studying photographs. All the trips to the museums to see how the Renaissance masters painted with light. All the times I would walk the streets of New York and wonder just how God’s light affected my vision. I wouldn’t change it for anything in the world.

Today my passion for this art is as strong as it was since I began this mission.

I want to thank you all of you who believe in me. I vow to never let you down.

I want to thank the models that seek me out.

I want to thank the designers that allow me to bring their creations to life.

I want to thank the art buyers that push to use me.

I want to thank the art directors that marvel at my light.

I want to thank the creative directors that push me out of my comfort zone.

I want to thank my core group, because without you, there is no me.

I want to thank the haters, because you let me know just how well I am doing.

Let’s see what we can do in the next five years.

Remember... Light Is Light

P.S.  Happy Birthday Shae Fontaine (http://www.shaefontaine.com/)

DON'T SHOOT WITH ME

Yasmine Lewis

There I said it. And yeah, I mean it. Don’t shoot with me (or any other photographer for that matter). If you hire a photographer there should a reason. We are in the customer service business. It is our job to produce a photographic product for you. If we don’t do our job (or can’t do our job), don’t shoot with us.

In my history of dealing with models, I am seeing an alarming trend. Models shooting indiscriminately with just anyone and everyone, for no apparent reason, just to gather photos and bragging rights. Why? Just so you can say, “I shot with Dallas.” And then what?

Nothing.

Then there is a problem. Being a model, there is really only one reason you should be shooting with a photographer. Because it needs to get you somewhere. Because it needs to get you into a door that was previously closed to you. Because it needs to assist you in booking a job that wasn’t available before. Because it needs to get you in the public’s eye in a way the public has never seen you.

But what do YOU do? Take "hot ass" photos that you post on FaceBook to get accolades or use it to get dates. Or better yet, you shoot with substandard photographers that produce garbage images. Or even better still, you shoot with a photographer that shows you no love. If you approach a photographer and they aren’t excited about shooting with you, LEAVE THEM ALONE. Because they have no interest in working with you, it will show in the work. You WANT a photographer to be excited about shooting you, just as much as you are excited about shooting with them. It shouldn’t always be about the money, there should also be some sort of love involved. But you shoot anyway, and if you’re lucky, you get some hot photos, but did the photo do its job? No? Then guess what? The photographer didn’t do their job.

When models approach me about work, my first question is always: “how did you find out about me?” The usual answer is: “I’ve seen your work/I’ve been following you for years/You shot a friend of mine.”

The second question is always more telling. “Why do you want to shoot with me?” The answer to this question is paramount, because it will immediately determine if we are going to work together. If you come to me and say: “because I think your work is hot!” Most likely we won’t be working together. Thank you for the compliment, but no. Why? Because you are taking an opportunity to advance your career and you are approaching it in a very cavalier fashion. You are hiring me for a job. That means I have to produce something that is going to work for you. I approach your photo shoot just like I would approach any other paying job. We map out a course of action in order to give you what you need. You need beauty shots in your book, let’s do beauty. You need editorial fashion in your book, let’s do fashion. You need body photos, let’s do body. These are the reasons why photographers ask you what is your book lacking (or better yet, we ask to see your book). We want to give you what you need. Anyone can take a hot photo (New York is filled with some of the greatest photographers in the world). But if we take that hot ass photo, and it doesn’t do its job, it’s really not a hot ass photo. Do you see where this is going?

Understand the business for what it is worth and understand YOUR worth as it pertains to the business. We can shoot all day long everyday, and I can continue to take your money. I can continue to give you photographs, but they have to do their job.

Remember… They have to do their job.

Think about it.

SO YOU WANT TO BE A SUCCESSFUL MODEL? THEN WHY DON’T YOU LISTEN?

Tatsiana
Fenton Moon Media

Hello, dear readers. Here I am in the month of March, writing yet another blog. I was feeling kind of bad when I realized that I didn’t write a blog until we were in the third month of the new year, however, when I went back over the previous year, it was the same thing. I didn’t start gaining speed until March. I guess because I’ve been so busy with work (again, thank God), but also if you’ve been following the winter in New York, it’s been absolutely horrible.

The reason for this blog is I’ve been coming across a lot of models (both male and female) who have been asking me for advice with regards to their careers, and even though I am flattered, I have to let you people know something: I am not a modeling agency. I am a professional photographer with a career of my own to manage, therefore, I really don’t have the time to follow you and your career. When I DO decide to help a model, it is usually one reason why. They listen. It’s just that simple – hence the title of this blog.

When I decide to work with a model, it is because I see potential in them. I see beauty in them. I see grace in them. I refuse to work with stuck up models, arrogant models, untalented models or wannabe models. The model that is the absolute WORSE to work with is the model that does not listen. When I (or anyone in the profession that are able to help you, are wise, or can get you  - as you like to say “put on”) you should take that valuable advice and run with it. I have two colleagues that come to mind when it comes to getting a wealth of information regarding the modeling business. That’s Karen Lee (http://www.karenleegroup.com/) (formerly the director of scouting for Elite Models) and Michael Maddox (http://www.dearmichaelmaddox.com/ and http://www.michaelmaddoxseminars.com/). Right there before you is a wealth of information. Most times when models approach me, I refer them to their websites. The owners of these sites have been in the modeling industry for well over 20 years. They knows the ins and outs of the industry, the whys the wherefores, what to do, and what NOT to do. If Michael Maddox was to say “stand in the middle of Times Square at 12 noon and spin three times” you better to do it and don’t ask why.

But you know what I get when I tell models to go check it out. They go to these websites, but it gets to a point that you have to actually sign on and join (for a small fee). That means you have to pay. Guess what? They don’t want to. They expect the information to be handed to them on a silver platter. In the age of instant information and instant gratification, they feel they shouldn’t have to pay. These are the same models that think they shouldn’t have to pay for a photoshoot as well. But think about it: for the price of a decent lunch, you can have a wealth of information placed before and even ability to speak to the them personally.  Isn’t that worth its weight in gold? To think that if they could bestow a few pearls of wisdom upon you, that you can possibly get into an agency, possibly get to the next level and possibly get put on? Why won’t you do it?

Because you don’t want to listen. Therefore, since you don’t want to listen why should they waste their time with a model that doesn’t heed the advice given to them.

The reason why there's a Marcus Hill, Marlon Yates, Steph Jones, BJ Williams, Brandon Thomas, Anthony Gallo, and Mehcad Brooks, because they listen. Michael Maddox started these boys along with numerous others, and together they’ve created an undeniable team of success. Thinking that you know everything when you really don’t gives you a losing result every single time. I always likend Michael Maddox to Anna Wintour (the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Magazine). She shakes and bakes Vogue. People may not like her that much, but she gets the results of success. Personally, I would rather listen to someone who knows the business rather than pay exorbitant amounts of money running all over the place and listening to people who can’t do anything for me, in all honesty you're not getting anywhere or gaining anything. Then what happens? You get angry with the world because YOU didn’t listen, or YOU didn’t follow the path to guaranteed success. There is an old saying that goes “the grass is always greener on the other side”.  Be careful of the other side. The roots of that grass may be weak. Listening, patience and persistence will give you a win-win outcome every single time.

So if I tell you to lose weight, then lose it. If I tell you to cut your hair because it will make you more marketable, then cut it. If I tell you that you are NOT a “high-fashion” model that you will be better as a “commercial” model, take heed.  If I tell you that a particular photographer is not suitable for your book, I am not hating on that photographer, I am telling you what you need to do to advance your career.

I gain NOTHING by telling you the truth. I gain NOTHING out of bestowing knowledge on you. I gain NOTHING out of giving you my industry “hook ups”. That’s all for you and to help you launch your career.

I have a proven track record for the work that I’ve produced for models (ask any one of the many models I helped get signed). If you let me do my job, you will get signed. If you do your job, you will get signed. If you listen, guess what? You will get signed.

The rest is up to you. So if you’re serious… REALLY REALLY serious… Then LISTEN.

SHUT UP AND LET YOUR WORK SPEAK FOR ITSELF

Billy Payne




Credit:  Photographer Daniel Serrette via hodginsphotography

Wow. Look at the date (March 2, 2011). This is my first official blog of 2011. Sooooooooooooo Happy New Year, Happy Valentine's Day, Happy President's Day and Happy Ground Hog's Day.  I can’t even BEGIN to explain why I haven’t been writing. I apologize for not writing sooner (yeah, yeah, yeah, you’ve heard THAT before). I’ve been busy with shooting (thank, God), building my brand (finally realizing what I need to do to make that happen), upgrading equipment (new studio lights are on their way) and promoting my lighting seminar (http://www.lightislight.com/). So dear readers, I want you to know that even though I haven’t been writing, I’ve been busy plugging away making things happen for me (and others) behind the scenes.

I will do a re-cap of what’s been going on in the past few months and when time allows address each one of these topics in their own blog.

Let’s see. I FINALLY met the wonderful and illustrious Michael Maddox face to face and we had a modeling seminar (that will definitely be a blog).  He was so much fun.

I was introduced to a new and talented designer by the name of Vaughn Jereaux Adams (http://www.vaughnjereaux.com/) and did some shooting of his women’s line.

The shoot for Adha Zelma called “Autumn” (http://www.adhazelma.com/) was met with rave reviews.

I was featured in article in Style-ology Magazine and finally my long awaited and much anticipated editorial with the wonderful and talented designer/stylist Robert Durant for Bleu Magazine finally on the shelves at various bookstores and newsstands (http://www.robertdurant.com/).

I was approached by the African-American painting phenom Kihende Wiley (http://www.kihendewiley.com/) to be his lighting technician and photographer for some upcoming art projects. (Let's see what our agents have to say). 

And lastly, what I am known to do, I shot a few models and changed their lives.

But back to the topic at hand. When I write a blog, it usually pertains to the fashion and modeling industry as a whole, however, anything that is discussed here can be used in any walk of life. Just change the occupations and some of the anecdotes to suit your particular lifestyle and voilá, you have your own life altering epiphany right before your very eyes.

The reason for this blog was a person asked me most recently “do you consider yourself a talented photographer or a skillful photographer?” I didn’t have to give it much thought. My answer immediately was “skillful.” That prompted the next question: "How so?"

There are a lot of talented photographers out here. With the advent of digital photography, the learning curve has dropped into the toilet and almost anyone can pick up a camera kit at your local Wal-Mart and start snapping away. If a person takes 10,000 photographs, its inevitable they will eventually take a nice picture. I will venture to say they may even take a good one. They may go on to take several good pictures. It does take a certain amount of talent to produce a good image every now and then and most photographers when starting out (if they know what they are doing) have some sort of talent, passion and drive, hence the reason for this blog.

So where does the skill part come in? The hours upon hours upon hours of perfecting my craft, the endless sleepless nights of understanding just where to put a particular strobe to achieve an effect that I want. To understand the precise moment of the sun rise or sun set and how it glints in a subject’s eye. To figure out and master the most exact ratio where the blending of flash and ambient light comes together to produce a stellar and dramatic image. To understand that if I stand just right at a particular point in the room, I can look at a model and see just how the light is going to flicker in his or her eye to create an image the will make the viewer heart skip a beat. That all takes a level of skill. You will only get so far on your talent. You need consistency and wherewithal to get the job done time after time and that can only be done with skill. And lastly, knowing enough to never have to talk about just how good you are, because honestly, your work should speak for itself.

As I said earlier in this blog a lot of people are buying cameras, lighting equipment, building a website and setting up shop. They are charging unsuspected and gullible models fees at a time when they should really be learning their craft. The unsuspecting models think that they are getting quality images from a skillful photographer, because they don’t know any better. But when you hear from someone (usually the horse’s mouth) about how FABULOUS they are, you tend to buy into the hype.

It’s bothersome and even hurtful for those of us who have made this an actual livelihood of producing consistent, quality images. We put in the time, the effort, the love, the passion, the hours and the money. When we set a particular rate it is because we have proven track records. If a model comes to me and says “I need photographic images that will help me get signed.” I know what to produce for them time and time again. If a client comes to me and says “I want to shoot like a Revlon campaign” they need not say more, I know what to give them. When a person says “I need actor’s headshots not model’s headshots” I know EXACTLY

It took me almost three years of studying and learning my craft before I even thought I was worthy enough to start charging for my services. It takes a lot more than just pointing your camera at a model and clicking away before you could (or should) call yourself a professional photographer. I’ve seen countless “newbies” come on to the scene and say “Yes, I am just as good as Dallas and I don’t charge as much.” Oh yeah? I have YET to say I can shoot like any of my peers or contemporaries (which I am constantly compared to other photographers – I get that), but I am not going to brag I am just as good or better than the next guy. You came to me for a product, either you’re going to like me or you’re not. You’re going to pay my rate or you won’t, but I will not have to brag about my work. I am at a point of my career, I don’t have to.

So to all you so-called photographers: Learn your craft. Master your artistry. Stop bragging. Get to a place where you are producing quality images (time and time and time again). Stop taking money from unsuspecting models and producing substandard work.

So, shut the fuck up and let your work speak for itself.

TO TF OR NOT TO TF… THAT IS THE QUESTION

Video provided by photographer: Tiran Winston
Website: http://www.awintersfoto.com/

Happy Thanksgiving to you all. As you are sitting around giving thanks for this joyous and fattening occasion, I've decided to leave you with some thoughts on the world of TFing.

For those of you outside of the Industry the term TF means “trade for”. It can be TFP (trade for print) or TFCD (trade for CD-ROM). I was introduced to this phenom through a website called Model Mayhem (http://www.modelmayhem.com/). It can be a useful tool when you are looking to build your portfolio, test out new creative ideas and to test out new talent. It goes a little something like this:

There may be a makeup artist that I may want to test out because I am building my beauty repertoire. The makeup artist will give their talent and time and I will shoot. Once the shoot is over I pay the makeup artist in photographs. I get the talent of a skilled artisan, and in turn they get photographs. It turns out to be a win-win situation for all.

This can be a good thing, because usually through this method, you build good solid business relationships as well as build a team. I would not be where I am today without the expert talent of some of the people that I’ve worked with. I have an incredible team behind my photography and every time I get a compliment or praise, my team gets complimented and praised as well because without them, there would be no me.

So as I embarked on this photographic journey, this is pretty much how I build my team, as I gotten better at photography, my team has gotten better because as you get better you begin to attract bigger and better talent, as you get bigger and better talent, you get bigger and better photographs. When I received paid gigs, my team is the first I call on for the job, because if I get paid THEY get paid. It is a very loyal and monogamous relationship.

However, this holds true with wardrobe stylists, designers, hair stylists and models. The magic of magic of the mythical TF is that it becomes a situation where all parties involved will walk away with something useful for themselves, hence the reason for this blog.

The above video clip illustrates the concept that TF means shoot for free and that really isn’t how it goes (at least in my world). I am constantly approached by models who wish for me to shoot them for free, because they think they will be a “welcoming addition to my portfolio.” Most often they are not. Understand models, there are two ways that a photographer will shoot you: (1) they love your look and you will be a great addition to their book, (2) you’re paying them. It’s just that simple. Most often than not, models who DO approach me would never make my hard book portfolio, nor will my team get anything out of it, so it becomes a waste of my time to do any work of that calibre. Models, be willing to pay for the photographer/photographs of your choice. There is a reason why you approached that photographer and want to work with them.

Most models don’t realize the time, talent and money spent to produce photographs. A simple TF shoot already puts me in the hole for $100.00 because of studio rental time alone. This does not include travel and gas time. I cannot speak on behalf of other photographers, but I cannot take a TF so lightly.

So the next time you think a photographer should shoot you TF, ask yourself. Is it worth it for them?

BEHIND EVERY BILLBOARD THERE’S A STORY

Nole Marin

Behind every campaign, there’s a story. Behind every photo shoot, there’s a story. Behind every casting, there’s a story. Behind every model/booker meet, there’s a story. Behind every designer’s fitting, there’s a story. Behind every “Polaroid” shoot, there’s a story. Behind every successful model’s career, there’s a story. It’s the nature of the beast. There is a motto that you models need to know. “What you won’t do the next model will.” It is just that simple.

Is it time for you to leave the business? Perhaps. I can’t make that decision for you. But you models (especially the males) are in a business that is predominantly run by the homosexual community (please see my previous blog “Modeling and the Ugly Fat Chick” http://dallasjlogan.blogspot.com/2010/03/modeling-and-ugly-fat-chick.html). If you wish to succeed in this business, you will have to play the game if you like it or not. It is just that simple.

The reason for this blog is that allegations came to light that celebrity stylist Nole Marin is being charged with making unwanted sexual advances upon wanna-be model Nicholas Hamman-Howe. Is it true? Who’s to say? There are three stories in this particular Greek tragedy. The model’s side, the alleged “perpetrator” side, and what really happened. Since I wasn’t there, I can't tell you what really happened, but I can tell you one thing. I think I know how it went down. It is a very common movie.

Act One / Scene One

Beautiful “model” with great physique is approached by someone in the fashion industry. Information is exchanged, and a professional relationship is forged. Fashion Industry Person (“FIP”) tells model that they can have a great career. Starts to fill their head up with dreams of becoming the next supermodel. (No one can make you the next supermodel. Remember that).

Model becomes intrigued and FIP may or may not start making sexual innuendos to the model. It can be playful banter, it can be sexually suggestive comments, etc. The model (who may or may not be straight, MAY play along). (At this point, if the model wasn’t interested, it should’ve been nipped in the bud).

Then once the model is open to the prospects of possibly being a professional working model, FIP may say something like “I can make you a star.” (No one, except the person SIGNING the checks can do anything like that for you).

Situation ensues where the model and FIP are in a place where the FIP “takes advantage” of the model. The model acquiesces. Then the FIP got what he wanted, but the model didn’t, and guess what? The model cried rape.

End Scene.

This is a common scenario in the world of modeling. For both male and female. People in the industry will offer you advancement and some are in the position to do so. You, being the model, are an adult and it is up to you at this point to make the decision of what you are willing to do, or not. What you will allow, and won’t. What will happen, and not. But what you shouldn’t do is go through with the game plan and then bitch about to others in the industry. That is an ultimate NO-NO.

The fashion industry is very very tiny. And what you say or do will be heard around the modeling world in a matter of minutes. I remember a friend and wonderful photographer in Australia, George Favios (www.georgefavios.com) had a casting, and a model came with photos of mine in her book. He knew right away it was my work and a conversation commenced. Though nothing bad happened between me and this model, if it had and the model decided to badmouth me, I can guarantee you once that meeting was over I would’ve received an email about the situation. It is the nature of the beast. I used this scenario to let you know that anything (good or bad) can reverberate around the globe in a nanosecond.

I know a lot of the sexual proclivities of my colleagues. From CEOs of modeling agencies down to the interns that assist for photographers. I know the sexual appetites of various models and what they will and won’t do. I know of models on the “DL”. I know of the sexual antics of stylists and their stable of models. And I am quite sure a lot of them know about mine. But you want to know something? The difference is you won’t hear it from my mouth, because honestly what occurs between two consenting adults is none of my business. I could care less what happens between Photographer A and Model B. I could care less what happened behind the scenes of a photo shoot between a designer and a model. I could care less what it took to get the “fullness” in a model’s underwear. It is none of my business. And how do I know all these things? Because some models have big mouths. They are good for letting me know what so and so did to them at a photo shoot. Or what was texted, or said or done. My usual retort to that is “did you get what YOU needed?” If the answer is yes, my usual reply is “then shut the fuck up.”

As I said, this world is very small, and I associate with a lot of powerful people behind the scenes. If a model comes at me with their stories, I listen – with a grain of salt and I weigh out the consequences of what this person is telling me, because I have to make a mental decision of “am I going to alert my colleague of this particular incident?” “Is this model telling the truth?” “Should I mind my business?” Most often I mind my business because it let’s me know something. This particular model has a big mouth and if he is telling the business of the next professional, then 10 to 1, he will tell my business as well. And guess what models? Once you’re labeled as a big mouth, no one is going to want to work with you.

Now I am not telling you to go against your own moral fiber. Nor am I telling you what goes on in the fashion industry is right or wrong. I am just laying the scenario before you and you being an adult make the decisions for yourself. But don’t go crucifying the person because you allowed yourself to be put into a situation, and then things didn’t work out for you. You knew what you were doing when you got involved with this particular individual. You can’t cry wolf, after you let the wolf out to play.

So did Mr. Marin make unwanted sexual advances to Mr. Hamman-Howe? I don’t know, I wasn’t there. All I know is that there were two consenting adults in a room and what occurs between two consenting adults is none of my business.

THE MAKING OF A WELL EQUIPPED MODEL

Amy Ploof of Identities

Yes, it's me again, and yes another blog is coming your way, just after a short interval of time since the “oath” blog. When people come to my blog (especially models), I always want them to walk away with something that may help them along the way. A lot of the things I say may not affect them now, or even make sense, but somewhere down the line, the model may be in a photo shoot perhaps and a light bulb will go off an they will say to themselves: “THIS is what Dallas was talking about.”

If any of you follow me on Facebook or Twitter, models from coast to coast constantly hear me talk about boot camp, boot camp, boot camp. My dear friend and world renowned runway coach, Michael Maddox (http://www.michaelmaddoxrunway.com/, http://www.dearmichaelmaddox.com/, http://www.michaelmaddoxrunway.com/) talks about it in his seminars.  My good friend and amazing hairstylist Tim Johnson explains it to models he is trying to develop in the southern states. I extol the fundamentals of modeling. The understanding of light, the understanding of a model’s angles, the importance of posing, the importance of emotion, the understanding of presence, how to connect with the camera/photographer, the true meaning of head to toe modeling. I’ve boot camped veterans and neophytes alike and every single time I was met with a “no one has ever told me that before.” Yeah, I’ve become that photographer.

So you, the model, will now think: “well I got some really great images now. I’ve worked on my personality. I’ve learned how to flirt. I went through Dallas’ boot camp. What more do I need to know?”  A lot. 

Honestly I am surprised I have never covered this topic before, but a model posed a serious question to me a couple of days ago which prompted this blog. He asked, “how do you prepare for a particular photographer?” To say the least, he stumped me.

Different photographers want different things and unless you know the photographer beforehand, or know what the project is going to be, you really don’t honestly know. Some photographers are very precise at how they want their models to pose. Some photographers are more organic at their approach and let the models pose for themselves and the photographer will look for the best possible angles. Some photographers want movement (be it hair, or body), and other photographers want you to pose like stone. It’s a crap shoot (pardon the pun), but if nothing else, you should always be prepared for anything which is the reason for this blog.

Models, how many times have you been booked for a particular designer, and you go online to look at their previous collections? That’s homework. How many times have you gone and actually studied a photographer’s website? Other than going to see if their work is “good or not?” Most of you haven’t. You normally just go to a photographer’s website to see if they are any good, and if they can give you "hot photos". This is also a time to study. What is the MODEL doing in that shot? What emotions are the model conveying. What kind of lighting is the photographer using to set a mood? How are the models groomed? This is very very very important.

Models, I cannot stress this enough, if time allows, always do your homework on who you are going to shoot with. When you go for a job interview you try to find out as much as you can about a company, it isn’t any different than studying a photographer’s work. Secondly, you should always be groomed at all times.

On more than one occasion, I have had models come through with unsightly body and facial hair (this is both male and female). Photographers HATE having to retouch hair that could’ve been taken care of in a quick shave, be it the lip line, the arm pit, the pubic area, jaw line/cheeks, or the back of the neck. Ladies, that pretty downy fluff that sprays across your cheek may look cute for your boyfriend, but if a photographer tries to back light you with that over the shoulder lighting, it comes across like Santa Claus. Males, if you are going to shave your torso, shave your arms and legs as well. Remember black models, hair on the body can photograph like dirt. How do you do your homework? If you go to a photographer’s website, look at the guys. Are they smooth? Hairy? Let that be your benchmark.

Deodorant. I cannot stress this enough as well. Gels everyone. Or sprays. Those blocky, chalky anti perspirant wreaks havoc on wardrobes as well as anything else that will require the model to bring their hand over their head and expose their armpits. Keep perfumes and colognes to an absolute minimum. 

Hands and feet. Manicures and pedicures are paramount. You have no idea what may be captured in an image. Gnarled nails, and bad finger nail polish are a no-no. Remember ladies: neutral colors, short to medium length. Most of us prefer clear polish, or the rudimentary ¼ inch French manicure (anything longer and it comes across like an extra on Jersey Shore).

Hair. Gentlemen always keep it neat. If you are prone to being photographed with facial hair, always have it photo ready. If you can’t then in your bag of tricks bring your shaving equipment, be it shaving cream or clippers. Same holds true for ladies. This means eyebrows as well (gentlemen a neat eyebrow is different than a “done” one). Take care of those pesky nose and ears as well. And ladies, if you are prone to doing beauty, a well established photographer will normally have a well established crew. We prefer to have a model with freshly washed hair and no products in it whatsoever. At the shoot all of that will be taken care of. What happens is, if your hair is dirty, or weighed down by products, the hairstylist can’t achieve their end results, because they are fighting the product that is already in your hair and you start gunking up their equipment. If you have dye jobs, make sure they are fresh, there is nothing more frustrating then Photoshopping in the correct color of the roots. If you have weaves and extensions, make sure they are shoot ready and that you have qualified people doing your hair (REAL hair is much more preferred). And speaking of extensions, if you have clip on hair pieces or wigs, throw them in your bag of tricks (same rule holds true, make sure they are clean). This helps the hairstylist out tremendously if you have thin hair and they may need to build a style.

Makeup. Come with your face free of makeup. Most times, a lot of models don’t know their true color foundation and “shoot” makeup is a hell of a lot different than “every day” makeup. If per chance you have the fortunate discovery of finding your true foundation, always have it available at a shoot. It lets the makeup artist know that you are serious about what you do and that you are well equipped. This goes for guys as well. And all models should know how to apply the fundamentals of makeup. Both male and females. Most important: Skin moisturizer and LIP BALM!!!! Toothpaste and floss are also good to have. If your eyes are never at their “whitest” Visine is always a must for every model’s bag.

Underwear. Always carry fresh underwear in your bag of tricks and possibly different kinds of underwear. You will be surprised how underwear will photograph under garments. This holds true for bras, panties, thongs, briefs, boxer briefs and so forth. Gentlemen you should always have clean socks (both white and black) and ladies you should always have a pair of stockings.

Now that you’ve come well equipped and you had a stellar shoot, one of the most important things is a simple thank you to all you’ve worked with on the crew. A successful photograph starts with a team of people to achieve a required result. If possible, get a business card from each person involved and send them a thank you follow up. You would be surprised at the results. Many times I am contacted about the usage of a model and more often than not I am recommending the model that gave a damn versus the model that I never spoke to again. I’ve asked models about a particular photograph in their portfolio and the worse thing a photographer can hear is: “I don’t remember the photographer’s name.” Ultimate NO-NO because that tells me that you didn’t give a damn about that person and the work they went through to create a beautiful image for your portfolio. So let’s recap, shall we? Things that should always be in a model’s :”bag of tricks”:

1. Clippers/razors/shaving equipment. This also means that you should have a towel, wash cloth and soap.
2. Deodorant should be clear.
3. Change of underwear, bra, socks, etc.
4. Simple pair of fitted black jeans and a pair of casual black shoes.
5. Hair products (clips, weaves, etc.).
6. Fingernail polish / remover (you may have to change your nail color while you are there). Fingernail clippers.
7. Makeup products and makeup remover as well as a good moisturizer and lip balm and Visine.
8. Don’t forget thank you.

I can guarantee you that this list may get a little longer as my colleagues bring items to my attention. I know it may seem like a pain in the ass, but there is nothing more beautiful than a well equipped model.