THE PHRASE FOR TODAY IS “THANK YOU” (AND OTHER THINGS THAT MODELS TEND TO DO – OR NOT)

I know. It’s been an INCREDIBLY long time since I’ve written a post and I am sincerely sorry. I am not going to say that I am going to try to be more diligent. I am not going to say that I will start pumping out an entry once a week – hell even once a month (because we all know I would be lying). But when something bothers me, it will prompt me to have to say something to someone or I will scream.

To catch you up on a couple of things,  I’ve been getting my hard book portfolio together. This means printing, printing and more printing. It was also the first time my book was viewed by my agent and NOT A SINGLE PHOTOGRAPH WAS REMOVED. So now I can be shopped full throttle. I’ve recently shot the new line of Euge Fashion’s look book. I’ve been shooting a lot of models from California (and three of them have been placed [Brandon Lucas with LA Models, Brandon Espy and BJ Williams with Red Model Management in New York]). I will try to give you some morsels on those guys in a future blog. I swear.

But I digress. Let’s get to the topic at hand and the reason for this post. I’ve come from a bygone era where etiquette and manners were paramount. Girls went to charm school to learn social grace and elegance. Young men were taught to walk up to a door of a young lady he was courting and knock on her door to announce his arrival (not blare a car horn, or text a message saying he is outside). I come from a time that if I had a party and received gifts, I had a week’s time to send out handwritten Thank You cards, because if I didn’t, there was an inevitable ass whipping in my immediate future.

As I embark on this wondrous career in the fashion industry, the average age of my subjects range from about 16 to 22. I can understand the communication and generational gap that stands between us (as wide and as deep as the Continental Divide), however, I’ve been noticing that a lot of the youth today are downright rude. I get tons of emails from models with questions about “how to be put on” “what can I do to advance my career” “can you help me out” “how can I get it to the next level?” “Introduce me to so and so.”  Never do I receive a formal greeting. Never do I receive a simple hello. Never do I receive the customary how are you? Just the straight forward bombardment of what they need, can I provide the necessary information, and if not let them move on.

At first I thought it was me and maybe – just maybe I was being a little sensitive. When I am sent an email, I respond. When someone compliments my work, I say thank you. Remember ladies and gentlemen, if someone can take the time to write you, you should take the time to respond accordingly. Even if you are not interested. It is just the proper thing to do. If I am greeting someone in any form, it is a formal phrase of “How Are You, My Name Is… “ It is closed with a “Thank You for your time.” It is natural course of business and proper etiquette in a world that text messaging, video games and computers have removed all the social graces and taking us a step backwards in the realm of social norm.

The reason this blog came into fruition is I recently had a photo shoot for an out of town modeling agency. The agency owner is trying to groom and build a solid foundation of models (most of them were men of color). I’ve been in negotiations with this agency for a while and finally they came to my studio for their test shots. It was a hodgepodge of cornrows, tattoos, unkempt beards, bad hairlines and rotten attitudes. As I watched Mr. Doe (names changed to protect the innocent, of course) try to get these men into shape, he was greeted with attitude, surly come backs and flippant remarks. I stood there in wonderment because these models weren’t paying for their photo shoot – MR. DOE WAS!!!

Each model had their strengths and weaknesses. A lot of their weaknesses were cosmetic – most honestly, just grooming. Something that could honestly be taken care of right there in the studio. Everytime I discussed my concerns with the model it was echoed with a “see what did I tell you?” from Mr. Doe. So that means these suggestions were already raised prior to seeing me, but they chose to ignore it. So that means they didn't care what their agent has to say which in turns means they didn't care about their career. Every time something was suggested it was met with a negative bombardment of reasoning. I responded with “none of you would make it in New York. If an agent says X Y and Z, you do X Y and Z or you go home. It’s just that simple.”

When you are given valuable advice from a well known and well established person in the modeling industry, please take heed (remember, a lot of these professionals get TOP DOLLAR for giving you this information). We don't tell you these things for shits and giggles. We don’t get off on telling you things that will hurt your career. We are telling you these things and giving you the building blocks to help build a successful career. Don’t think that your good looks and great body is going to do it all and that you can have a rotten attitude and feeling of entitlement (remember NO ONE OWES YOU ANYTHING). For every one of you with that rotten attitude, there is another model waiting in the wings who's prettier, has a better body and has a better attitude and are GRATEFUL that someone has taken the time to express an interest in their career.

I’ve shot many models not for monetary purposes, but because they were humble, eager and passionate. They were appreciative of my time, energy and talent. Remember models of color (especially the males): you have to work three times as hard to get less than half the work of your white peers. You don’t have the luxury of an off day. You don’t have the luxury of a bad hair day. You don’t have the luxury of telling the industry to kiss your ass. It just doesn’t work that way.

So as I shot these models this past weekend, I pondered over the fact that a lot of professionals in the industry are being taken advantage of and if we were to step back and let these young men and women flounder in their ignorance, a lot of them would be sitting there spinning their wheels. I’ve taken a new stance. Approach me wrong, I probably won’t respond. If I offer you the proper suggestions to advance your career and I see that you don’t take heed, I will probably not associate with you again. If you can’t give me a proper token of gratitude, guess what? I will probably not work with you again. (No one is saying send me a Mercedes [though it would be really really nice]. A simple thank you would mean the world of difference to me – to a lot of us in the industry). It may also be the difference of you booking future work or not. (I get a lot of phone calls from people looking for models and trust me, I’ve turned a lot of models on to good jobs. Merely because they were appreciative).

Relationships are very important and every single thing I’ve discussed above can be applied to any aspect of life. No one in the professional world owes you anything, so when you walk in the door with your kiss my ass attitude thinking you are the shit and you feel like the world owes you something, guess again. I know a lot of photographers who’ve turned down paid gigs merely because of a model’s rotten attitude. There is a difference between confidence and conceit. There is a difference between bravado and belligerent. There is a difference between attitude and gratitude.

Remember, a lot of us can make a single phone call and you won’t get booked for a damn thing.

MARCUS RANDALL - CALIFORNIA'S BEST KEPT SECRET

Sometimes you go through life blissfully (and ignorantly) thinking that everything you’ve been taught about the “industry” is “correct.” Models are to be a certain height, a certain weight, a certain look, or a certain [fill in the blanks]. And as you go along, you are so busy pounding in your head all the industry “standards” that you find yourself turning away models merely because they don’t fit the industry standard. I know I’ve turned away some gems, and I know some of my colleagues have done the same. It’s a shameful way to be, because we become guilty of the very thing in which we complain about (no diversity in the industry).

Every once in a while, God comes along and shakes things up a bit and goes “Dallas (or whatever your name is). It’s time to sit back and look with ‘new’ eyes. Sometimes it is your job as an image maker to step away from the rigid rules of “industry standard” and make an exception. Eventually that exception will become the rule.” In this case God is played by California’s own Michael Maddox, my dear friend and industry mentor. Please check out his website (www.dearmichaelmaddox.com, and www.michaelmaddoxrunway.com).

I’ve developed a keen relationship with Michael and there isn’t much he says to me that hasn’t come to pass and he is like a wise old Jedi Master. I realize now that when he says things to me, I no longer question, I go blindly along because before long he is calling me and saying in the mixture of Southern drawl and California twang; “Didn’t I tell you, my dear friend?” Hence, the reason for this blog.

In my relationship with Michael, he has introduced me to a plethora of West Coast models that have been making trips to New York primarily to shoot with me. Thus far it has been B.J. Williams, Brandon Espy and lastly Marcus Randall. My adventures with each model has been unique and beautiful in its own right, but the most unique adventure of them all has been Mr. Marcus Randall.

If any of you have followed any of my blogs you will know one thing. I could honestly care what a model looks like (because they are all beautiful in there own unique way). However, like other photographers I still had an industry standard “chip” lodged deep into my cerebral cortex and very rarely do I stray from it. And if I followed this rule of thumb, I wouldn’t be writing this blog today.

What happens with Michael is, he will tell me that he is planning to send a model to New York to shoot with me. He will send me their images, and if I agree, he will tell me a little bit of what he wants. Most often Michael has been sending me stunning models of correct height, correct stature, correct body proportions and correct looks, this particular day, our conversation ran a little differently.

The email read: “Marcus Randall  –  What do you think?” As I opened the email, I was greeted with a bunch of photographs from a very good looking young man (although nothing stellar). I immediately told Michael no. Please tell this model not to waste his time.

What I love about Michael is this, he hears you out. He doesn’t override and dismiss anything you may think, and like a true friend, conversations with him are always a give and take.

“Why?” He asked.

I went into the usual diatribe of not liking his features, I pointed out all his physical shortcomings, I pointed out things that I found wrong with his images. Though he was photographed okay, he came across like an actor (or a calendar model), he would never be seriously taken as a real model in New York.

The phone was silent for a moment and Michael took a deep breath and said (these words I will never forget). “Just say hi. If after speaking with him, if you don’t want to photograph him, I totally understand.” It was as simple as that. Two days later I said hello, one month later I was picking him up from JFK airport in New York.

See, once you get to know Michael, you will realize that no matter what you think, you will do as he says, but the magic of it all is this: Michael will not say in so many words “you will do this.” The scenario will play out before you like an amazing Shakesperean play and before you know it, you would’ve done Mr. Maddox’s bidding.

Michael knows that I go COMPLETELY on feelings when it comes to my photography and it’s as simple as falling in love with the model and if that happens, I will indeed shoot him/her and upon speaking with Marcus, what was there not to love?

Once he and I agreed on a shooting date, it was no my tasks to study him. Understand all his flaws and all the reasons WHY I didn’t want to shoot him. He wasn’t industry standard height for models. Though handsome, he still came across like a B rated actor in his photographs, though his body was a stunning specimen of anatomy, there always seem to be something missing. And it was my job to find out just what that was. I asked for candid photographs and it was then I found the missing puzzle. Dazzling smile, warm personality and a frankness that exploded off the photographs that I just wasn’t seeing with previous photoshoots.

As I met him in New York I realized a couple of things, he was taller than I expected (still shorter than industry) and a hell of a lot better looking than his photos. I was immediately excited to shoot him and when we met it wasn’t the usual conventional handshake, but it was the warm hug of an old friend.

We hung out for a couple of days and in the interim I got a chance to really really know him. (Even though I “knew” him, our previous communications were through emails, telephone conversations, Twitter comments and texts). And all the nuances that you can’t capture in a photo were displayed before me. And I knew then and there that though Marcus has been photographed on countless occassions, he has never truly been captured and I took it as my person quest to make that happen.

Marcus went through my Model Bootcamp Sessions and he soaked everything up like a sponge. He learned hand placement, arm placement, connecting with the camera. He learned his good side versus bad and things he thought looked good in the camera, didn’t. He would sit on my dining room floor with a multitude of editorial magazines and studying poses, and expressions and feelings. He was hungry and he wanted to prove to me, to Michael and to all the other nay-sayers that yes, he has what it takes to succeed with the likes of Anthony Gallo, Marcus Hill, B.J. Williams and all the rest. For those photographers who turned him away, he wanted you to know what you were missing.

With a single photoshoot he was able to walk into New York agencies and prove to them that yes, even though he may be an inch or two below standard, what he lacked in height, he made up in confidence and bravado. Marcus will let you know he’s here and he is a force to be reckoned with. From this point onward, he will always be known to me as California’s Best Kept Secret.

Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you and the rest of the world: Marcus Randall. Like I said, I will never doubt Michael again.

MODEL BOOTCAMP - RELEASING THE MODEL WITHIN YOU

This blog was a long time in the making and I am living it through almost every photoshoot. You know when you do something everyday all the time, it’s no biggie to you, however, others are seeing amazing things and you just shrug your shoulders and go; “really? It’s what I do everyday.”

Every photographer has their strengths and weaknesses and each photographer should know to evolve and grow as an artist.  It is our job to constantly crush those weaknesses and turn them into strengths, and make our strengths even stronger. I was recently asked this question: What is your strengths and weaknesses? Without delving into the realms of my twisted psyche my most horrible weakness is conceptualization. I see the work of someone like Ruven Afanador (http://www.art-dept.com/artists/afanador/). I would view his work and go “my God, how does he think of these things?” But of course, as you delve deeper into the actual concepts, there are budgets involved, art directors, creative directors and such, but I, too can try to attempt small scale concepts and create magic like the likes of Maya Guez (http://www.mayaguezart.com/) and someone like Luqman (http://luqmanfotography.com/). My strengths? I can only call on two. My lighting and my ability to connect with a model, hence the reason for this blog.

As a photographer, I am always getting bombarded with the statements of how amazing my work is, how awesome the subject is, etc. And one night it dawned on me. My photography, though nice, really isn’t amazing. It is no better or worse than my equivalent peers. What the viewer is really seeing is the connection I make with the model and the energy in which we create the image.

Most times when I am shooting a new face, they don’t have much experience in front of the lens. Agencies like to send me these new faces because I take the time that is needed to teach them some of the fundamentals of modeling. It can be a long and laborious process, but in the end, the model, the agency and I are quite pleased with the finished product. Over time it has developed into something known as Model Bootcamp. Ask any of the models that I have put through this (both neophytes and veterans alike), and they will tell you, it can be tough.

What is Model Bootcamp? Well usually before I shoot a model, if time permits, I actually study their previous photoshoots. If I am actually lucky, I get to study candid images of them (be it Myspace photos, party images, Facebook images, etc.), because I personally find when a model is in front of the lens, they tend to have a guard up and I cannot get a chance to see the “real” person.  I am seeing a photographer’s rendition of them, so in essence, I am see what the photographer sees. This has its good points and bad points for me. We (meaning photographers) are magicians of illusion. We allow you to see what we want you to see. A model may be a little thick around the middle, a slight twist of the hip away from the camera may alleviate that. If a model is shorter than industry standard, it is our job to get lower than the model and shoot upward to make them appear taller, etc. However, I study these images to look for their physical weaknesses and strengths. Most often they are quite apparent, however, when they are not, it is my job to spot them out and to minimize them when I decide to shoot them.

If anyone knows me professionally, they know that I liken a photoshoot to a session of lovemaking. It is my job to make the model feel sexy, desirable, angry, whatever. It is the model’s job to convey that particular emotion back to me and it is my job to record it. The better the lovemaking, the better the babies (photographs) are going to be. That has always been my job and it hasn’t changed, however, it has evolved as I evolved as a photographer.

So now that I’ve had a chance to study a model, I figure out their angles and how best it will suit my needs in order to shoot them with regards to lighting, feel, etc., but then I also start looking at how they pose. Does it look forced, are their hands placed correctly, are their arm placements natural looking, is the feet well placed in the shot? If I start noticing common things in the photographs (even if shot by different photographers) it is now MY job to find out why. Has the photographer not pushed them enough, is there something going on that the model/photographer are trying to hide, etc. And lastly, I look at emotion and connection with the viewer. This herein lies the crux of the issues with most models.

When I first started shooting (like most of us), we were always looking for beautiful people. It made our job a lot easier, but as I evolved and my photographic eye evolved, I began to notice a trend of what I liked and what I didn’t like. And I noticed that the better models were producing something far more “magical” than the standard models. It was a connection with the photographer and with the connection with the photographer, you make a connection with the viewing audience. By doing that you create “life” in the eyes of the model. Emotion across the face and a connection that is indisputable and that is what I’ve began to develop in what is known as Model Boot Camp. I want to connect with the model. If I want the model to be sexy, it’s a lot more than just “looking” sexy for the camera. It’s about “feeling” sexy, so when the viewer views the image, I want to hear “God, that model is soooooooo sexy!” And sexy is a broad adjective and it means different things to different people and in each session it is my job to find out what that particular model’s sexy is, and teach them out to bring it out.

But it starts even before that. I would sit a model down and ask them what to they think their physical weaknesses are. It may be a weak chin, it may be a large nose, it may be eyes too close together. You would be surprised what kind of answers I may get from a model, because sometimes they just don’t know. They would tell me things that they may not like about themselves, but that is a whole different ballgame than saying what is your weakness as it pertains to the photographer. So we discuss these things and I take a series of photographs so they can personally see what I may see (yes, I allow the model to view the shoot as we go along, how else are they to learn?). A simple ½ inch turn of the head can make a weak chin look strong. Eyes that are too close together can come across slightly cross eyed, so changing the angle of the head ever so slightly will correct that. It is the little nuances in angles that can make a mediocre picture into a great picture. We find out what their best angles are, their good side versus their bad side, etc.. Once they get a clear understanding, you can see their modeling start taking on a particular shape and understanding that now they are not just standing in front the camera, they are actually modeling. Then from there we go into connecting with me as the photographer and viewer of the image. At this point is a psychological dance of the minds. I literally have to get into their business (and WOW some of the things I’ve learned). I need to know what it is that makes them feel particular ways about themselves and whatever that feeling is, they must learn to evoke it at the drop of a hat to produce the image. Most times I get it, and if not, we work at it until they’ve achieved it. The magical thing about it is this. Once they start viewing the images, it gets to a point that they tell me if the “it” factor is there or not. And it is how a model learns to grow.

Once I have achieved that special connection, we can then move on to the body. Most models I shoot are already in peak physical condition, but it is still my job to teach them how the equates to a photograph. A well built body can look blocky and square at the wrong angle, a woman’s waist can look thicker and thighs can look wider if they are presented to the camera wrong. So it is my job in Model Bootcamp to explain these things and how they relate to the camera. This is an ever evolving process. We discuss hand placement, arm placement, foot placement. And it is to get it to the point that it is natural. I strip away at the “model” façade and I force the model to become real and vulnerable with me, because when they do, I can guarantee you an amazing photograph. Most models have no idea what they are about to present to me, however, when we are done, it is not I that are picking out the final proofs it is them.

Is it a lot of work? Hell yeah, but it is also very rewarding. I love to hear an agent say to me “what in the world did you do to get this? These images are amazing! There is life in their eyes!”

It’s all about the connection. It’s all about the emotion. It’s all about the love.

It’s all about the Bootcamp.


Before Bootcamp

Model:  Yusuf Myers

After Bootcamp

Before Bootcamp

Model:  Anthony Lorenzo

After Bootcamp


Before Bootcamp

Model:  B.J. Williams

After Bootcamp


Before Bootcamp

Model:  Goldin Martinez

After Bootcamp

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO ME - AND THANK YOU TO YOU... YEAR 3 AND GOING STRONG.

Michael Maddox said to me one night… “You have worth, Dallas. Your work is vital to the industry and never let anyone make you think differently. You have talent, you have passion and you have love for the industry. Just keep doing what you’re doing and make them hate you or love you because they ain’t you. You wouldn’t be shooting any of my boys if you weren’t good at what you do. Know your worth.” (http://www.dearmichaelmaddox.com/)

Since I’ve embarked on a career in photography, three things will always happen in April as long as I am alive. Taxes, my birthday and my photographic anniversary (which, to me is really the MOST important day for me).

As I looked at the calendar it didn’t dawn on me my 3rd anniversary was upon me until I looked in my appointment book and was booking a photo shoot. I always sit there in stunned amazement. April 13, 2007 I was sitting in Prospect Park in Brooklyn, New York with photographer Sean Toussaint. His first words to me was and I will never forget: “I cannot teach you photography, no one can. However, I can teach you how to use your camera.” And that he did.

Each year brought something new and different. Each year was better than the year before. My passion for my craft and artistry is just as strong today as it was the day I learned how to truly operate my camera. Today I’m shooting magazine editorials, clothing campaigns, fitness campaigns, body campaigns, hair campaigns, makeup campaigns. You name it, I may have shot it.

I’ve learned so much about myself in this journey. I’ve learned that photography, though a technical manifestation of lights, angles, distances and so forth, I also know that it is very very organic and there is no wrong way or right way to take a photograph. It is only your way.

I’ve learned how to stand in a middle of a studio with my eyes closed and “feel” the light dance across my body so I will know how I want my lights set up. I’ve learned that if something doesn’t work, don’t force it, move on. I’ve learned how to turn a untrained person into a professional model. When people talk about how “amazing” my lighting is, the only entity I can thank is God.

How? I can’t begin to tell you. I just know that when a model leaves my studio anything that they could’ve possibly picked up will go with them for the rest of their lives. I am eternally grateful for every single model that has ever graced my camera because with each and every photo shoot I’ve walked away with a nugget of information that will carry me over into the next shoot. Because of my skill set, I am building careers one photograph at a time.

Models are flying in from all over the United States to shoot with me, when only a few short months ago, nobody really knew who I was. Am I getting the giant campaigns yet? No, but I know with each image I take, I am getting closer and closer to the prize. It makes me feel good when someone forwards me a picture of a major campaign and says “this looks EXACTLY like something you would shoot..” I smile inside, because they see what I see.

This blog will not be a controversial one. No in your face. No making you take a long look at yourself (but one will be coming soon). This is a simple blog to say thank you to all of you who believed in me, you made me a better photographer. For those of you who didn’t believe in me, because it forced me to prove myself. For those of you who encouraged me, because I know that I’ve made the right choices. For those of you who said I sucked, because of you, I had to get better.

Year 4 will bring lighting seminars, modeling seminars, celebrity photography, major modeling photography, trips abroad, trips around the corner, billboards and magazines. Sean Toussaint, you may not have taught me photography, but you sure taught me how to take a fabulous photograph.

2007 Highlights







2008 Highlights










2009 Highlights














SPECIAL THANK YOUS

Sean Toussaint – Without the knowledge that you’ve bestowed on me, I would be entering my years in absolute darkness. Thank you for showing me the light. (http://www.seantoussaint.com/)

Butch Johnson – My best friend, my brother and my partner. When the chips are down, I know where I can always turn for encouragement. Thank you for never allowing me to just be happy with “good enough.” (http://www.styledbybutch.com/)

Cuffy Johnson – Something as simple as saying “I’m not feeling that” will always send me back to the drawing board. I thank you for being in my corner, and I thank you for loving me and my artistry and letting me know that, yeah, I can do this.

Goldin Martinez – When all others told you I my work was garbage, you’ve stood by my side through thick and thin. Because of you I have gotten some of the most amazing images that I have never planned for. Thank you for seeing my greatness even when I couldn’t. (http://www.getfocusedfitness.org/)

Jordan Brown – Thank you for just being my soul mate. No one will ever truly understand the true meaning of “following your dream” unless, of course, they are following their dream. Thank you for being Mother Logan when I need Mother Logan. (http://www.fullcirclecounseling.org/)

Kimberly Montgomery – Through the ups and downs and richer and poorer, you’ve pushed and pushed and pushed me. Without your undying support I would not be the professional, the artist or the person I am today. I thank you.

Amy Dresser – Girl, you know what you’ve done for me. Keep doing it. (http://www.amydresser.com/)

Kam Khan – Thank you for all the late night conversations and teaching me how to understand lighting better. Thank you for showing me all the cool photographers and learning to grow as an artist.

Maya Guez – Girl, you will never know how much you’ve influenced me. When someone even mentions me in the same sentence as you, I get butterflies. What is THAT about? (http://www.mayaguezart.com/)

Tarrice Love – Though we may have never seen eye to eye, you have been one of the most influential photographers in my life. Good, bad or indifferent, you made my game a true A game. You've made me understand the industry for what it is and you've made me want to promote my brothers and sisters to absolute greatness. Thank you, Mr. Love. (http://www.ice-itsocool.com/)

Shae Fontaine – Thank you for always being in my corner and being one of my biggest supporters. I am blessed to have a fellow Aries in my life that understand what it is to say “fuck it” to everything else and following my dream. (http://www.shaefontaine.com/)

Steve Reganato – To the man who has been INCREDIBLY instrumental in my growth as an editorial/fashion photographer. Thank you for showing me not only how to be a better more technical photographer, but how to be a better conceptualizer. (http://www.stevereganato.com/)

Marco Grob – To the man who taught me light and the magic of a beauty dish, because of you my life was forever changed. (http://www.marcogrob.com/)

Steven Eastwood – The Canon Master? I know I am on a looooooooooooooong list of admirers and followers. Thank you for forcing me to think outside the box and at the same time still keeping it simple and still being able to take a wow worthy photo on a shoe string budget. No one can compare. (http://www.stepheneastwood.com/)

Heather Wilson – I will be eternally grateful for all your support when I first started. You saw talent in me when others didn't. You’ve elevated me to heights I never thought I could imagine. What would I do without you. (http://www.makeupbyheatherwilson.com/)

Damion Gerado - We have come so far in such a short period of time.  No one, and I mean NO ONE can beat a face (man or woman) quite like you.  Thank you for being part of the team.

Robert Durant – Without your unwavering support in such a volatile industry, I thank you for your friendship and support. I thank you for bringing me hotness every time you show up to the set and letting me know that I can better every time I shoot. I salute you. (http://www.robertdurant.com/)

Tim Johnson – For opening my eyes to talent outside the triangle of New York, London and Paris. (http://www.timjohnsoninternational.com/)

Alva Page – For being there from the beginning. You have been instrumental in my career in so many ways you may never know.

Romell Duresseau – For your undying support at my craft, my life, my career and my growth. You made me look at the beauty world in a whole new light.

Man Man Nance – For the man that put the word “Man” in ManHandled. Thank you for understanding what true passion is and true work ethics. Thank you for never ever letting me be second best at anything I do. Thank you for teach me all about illegal cable. Some people will never know.

Greg J. Konop - Because you are always hungry for knowledge, you keep me on my toes.  One day we will laugh about it all as we collect our royalty checks from Jed Root. (http://www.gregjkonop.com/)

Laretta Houston – From my early days of Flickr, thank you for the bombardment of some of the hottest photos I have ever seen. I am proud to be in the company of greatness, because, Laretta, you’re great. (http://www.larettahouston.com/)

Michael Maddox – In the third year of my career, I can’t think of anyone at this moment who has been the most influential in my growth not just as an artist or photographer, but as a human being. Thank you for letting me know that I can kick ass with a camera. Thank you for letting me know when I take a good photo, you turn around and say “do it again and make a great photo.” Thank you for having faith in me to send me models from across the United States. Thank you for letting me into your world without ever second guessing. Thank you for removing the 5 degrees of separation that needed to be removed. When God made you, my friend, he knew he had to throw the mold away. (http://www.dearmichaelmaddox.com/)


... And Others... 
Adha Zelma Jewelry
Adolphus Amissah
Adrian Richards
AJ Oliveria
Alexa Banks
Aliza Williams
Amber Rima
APM Model Management
Art&Exile
Ashley Carpenter
B1 Model Management
BASIC Model Management
Bintou
BJ Williams
Black Ice Jewelry
Bleu Magazine
Boss Models
Bradon Espy
Brianna Michelle
Brittany Oldenhoff
Bruce Hawkins
Carline Dargenson
Carlos Arias
Catherine Frances Scott
Celestino
Celestino Couture
Charlotte Berry
Chelsea Irwin
Claudia Unabia
Click Models
Damion Adams
Dansk Magazine
Devon Stephenson
Diana Schmidt
Direct Models
DJ Halston
Don Harris
Donna Taylor
Dorsey & Whitney LLP
Double Exxposure
Dremmler Desil
Drew Felton
Drew Milan
Durant by Robert Durant
Eboni Sade
Edwin Perriot
Ema Masters
Emilio Miller
Empire Model Management
Engels Santana
Epic Models
Erik Ford
Ethan James
Felton Group
Ford Models
Full Circle Counseling, LLC
Fusion Models
George Brown
George Favios
Ger
Get Focused, Inc.
Glynn Jackson
Greg J. Konop
Gregory Prescott
Harry Leonard
Hosea Johnson Photography
ID Models
Identities Models
Ikon Models
Itaysha Jordan
Jackie Lui
Jalicia Nightengale
Jamie Charles
Jamie Hilfiger
Jerome Storey
Jerris Madison
Joe Wigfall
Jon Hylton
Jonathan Brodick
JS Dirty
Judith Ashley
Karen Lee
Kenneth Anderson
Kent Edwards
Kenyba Mclean
Lavante Isaac
Lisa Grant
Loa
Makari
Malik Williams
Marcus Randall
Mars Model Management
Marvin
May Satch
Memi Johnson
Messiah McNair
Michael Delao
Michael Stallings
Milan Christopher
MMG Models
Nathan Basset
Neo Anderson
Nicole Archibald
Nick Perkins
Noise Magazine
Numero Magazine
NUOVO Magazine
Obi
Orlane Benau
Patty Tyler
Paula Neilson
Paulo Pascoal
Pearl Chin
Porselene
Q Models
Qudamah Hamilton
Red Model Management
Renee Thompson
Richard Farino
Romell 4 Face
Rumando Kelly
Sailey Williams
Sarah Blessing
Seven Muhammed
Shamar Forte
Sidney Etienne
Silver Model Management
Stanley Kaplan Talent
Stephanie Auguste
Stephanie Garcia
Suzie Chang
Svitlana Glebova
Terell Mason
Third Ward Studios
Tim Harris
Trevor Green
Tyra Banks
Vincent Payne
Wilhemina Models
Will Springfield
Willy Whitfield
Yeikov Bermudez
Yusuf Myers
Zaquan Champ
Zenith Pimental

I know there are a whole lot more people to thank. Forgive me if I have over looked you. Going into year 4, and it’s time to start pushing it to the next level.

BORING IS NOT SEXY… BEING PRESENT IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA.

Model: Renee Thompson of Code Model Management

Here I am at it again. Writing another blog (not bad for me, I might add). I get a lot of requests to be a little bit more frequent in my entries and I get tons and tons of requests and people throwing ideas at me as to what I should write next. Some are really good, and some not so good. I will let you in on a little secret: I get the best blog ideas from models. Almost every model I come in contact with will give me a nugget of something that is an instant shoo-in to be a topic on my blog.

The last entry (“Who The Fuck Are You?”) sparked some heated debates and some hateful comments – please keep them coming – but you know my pet peeve: If you are man/woman enough to write such hateful things, please be man/woman enough to leave your name and email. It’s only right. Another issue is a lot of models were pissed off to the fact that they seem insulted (“who the hell are you to tell a model that they can’t make it?”). Well let’s clarify a couple of things in that regard. For those of you who honestly know me, would know I would NEVER tell a model that they don’t have the potential to make it in this industry. Who the hell am I to tell a model to give it up? I am not a booker and what floats my boat often times a booker won't even want. There is more than enough work out there for everyone and honestly ANYONE can be a model. So, again, I am quite supportive when a person wants to take the plunge into this industry, because it is very very hard. It is very very competitive and it can be heartbreaking and unnerving for the faint of heart. But that goes for all of us in the industry (be it photographers, makeup artists, stylists, etc.) We are only as memorable as our last shoot and we must keep growing and evolving and reinventing ourselves. It’s about pushing the envelope and changing and growing and not being stuck in the proverbial rut and producing the same thing over and over and over again. So people, when I make a comment (or rant) in the blog, that’s all it is. I will not apologize for what I may say. I will not apologize for how I may say it, but I will apologize if you’re feelings are hurt. It isn’t about that. So let’s go onto today’s subject matter at hand.

When a model asks me for advice, or to critique them, my usual questions are: “Why?” “What do you wish to achieve with my critique of you?” I usually only cover the obvious if I have never photographed them before. It may be weight loss. It may be toning up. It may be shooting with better photographers. It may be telling them to upgrade their book. When they ask me about agencies. I tell them to do their homework. How to approach a booker. How to approach photographers, etc. I just give them the basic information that is needed to get them on the right path. How they decide to use that information is up to them. I can’t control if a model decides not to diet, or exercise, or go to an open call unprepared. And when a model who has been trying to make it for some time and still doesn’t? I am quite sure that any advice I may have offered them has been offered before. You (the model) decided not to follow it and therefore you are hitting a brick wall.

I digress. I had to get a few things off my chest before I could continue. Before this particular blog entry came to light, I’ve discussed with a lot of photographers about some of the issues they have with models (and this is usually the new faces and up-and-comers). And it is the issue of presence. Being aware and being in the moment at the photographic session.

Time and time again I have dealt with models and I usually give this monologue. “Ralph Lauren is looking for the new face to launch his line. You are the correct height, type, look that they are looking for and in a single photograph you have to show me why Ralph Lauren would want you to be their new face and not the next model.” It seems rather easy, doesn’t it? You would not believe it is one of the hardest things that a model would do.

Being a model, you are a performer. You are the silent actor. It is your job in a single image to convey emotion. And in most instances, that is all the time you have. A Casting Director is looking at hundreds of photographs in a single day for a major casting of that magnitude. They don’t have time to filter through images to “find” you. Either you will show it to them or you won’t. It doesn’t matter what the emotion is. It can be sexiness, happiness, sadness, anger, etc. And you have to say it without ever going over the top and mugging for the camera. This particular deed is a lot harder than most people think.

It is a fine line between love and hate, it can be something as simple as raising of an eyebrow, the widening of an eye, the parting of the lips. There is a fine line between sexy and sleepy. I’ve photographed models and said give me sexy, they go slack, the eyes become droopy and they think it's sexy. When I show them the image from my point of view, they realize that there nothing sexy about it. Then there are times when the model just doesn’t even emote at all and those are the models this blog is geared to.

More than one occasion I photographed models and it was frame after frame after frame of the same exact expression. I would say “say give me happy,” click. “Give me sad,” click. “Give me angry,” click. And when you put all three images side by side, there isn’t single change of expression in the face and models, this can be quite frustrating for the photographer trying to achieve an emotion from you. Beyond practicing how to pose and how to walk - the most important thing you can do in your career is learn how to create emotion in your face. How to create that photographic tension that separates a good model from a great model. It is about connecting with your inner-self and reaching deep down inside to find that one emotion that when you release it, there is no mistaken what you were trying to emote in the eyes of the viewer. It is about being present in the moment and being present with the photographer and making that one connection so at the instant that photograph is snapped, the photographer can proudly say “we got it!”

I study a lot of portfolios and the first thing I look for is expression in a model’s face. If I come across 4 or more images in a row and I am seeing the same exact thing, I instantly know it’s not going to work for me and therefore I am not going to want to shoot the model. When I am asked, my reply usually is: “They’re boring.”

Are you boring?

WHO THE FUCK ARE YOU?

That’s right, I know the title is rude. So what? Don’t look over your shoulder, don’t look at the model to the left of you and don’t look at the model to the right. I am talking to you. Have I got your attention? Good.

Every single time I decide to do one of these “in your face” blogs, it usually stems from something deep inside of me that’s been simmering for a long time on a very low fire. Each and everyday of my professional existence, I am bombarded by models with the same questions over and over again. Do I have what it takes? (Usually a resounding no) Can I make it as a model? (Anyone can be a model – look at the fat chick that holds the Pine Sol bottle – she’s a model [an actual paid model]). But the stellar remark that gets me every time is when one of them have the audacity to say “I am going to be the supermodel.”

Are you really? Do you really have what it takes to be a supermodel? Names like Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Agyness Deyn, Jessica White, Natalia Vodianova, Raquel Zimmerman, Gisele Bundchen, Jon Kortajarena, Tyson Beckford, Gabriel Aubrey, Andre Van Noord, Tyson Ballou - hell even the current ones like Sean Opry, Rob Evans, David Agbodji, Corey Baptiste and the list is endless. You have that certain jene se quois to stand in such an elite line up and demand the money they demand? Well, let’s get down to business.

I am going to lower the bar for the moment. Let’s not even take SUPERMODEL status. Let’s just be an honest to god working model. That means at LEAST 75% of your annual income is generate solely through modeling. You go out there shoot after shoot, hoofing it from casting to casting. Being turned down job after job. Going to the gym, eating right, sleeping right, just to get up and do it all over again, because the agency is trying to make money off of your superior DNA.

Agent? What agent? You’re not signed? OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH, you’re one of those. Those are the types of models that I like the most. Usually (and I am using the term loosely) this type of model is a person with above average looks, better than most body, had a couple of photo shoots under their belt, because someone told them that they could be a model. They go out into the world after a couple of photo shoots and want to start making money for their time, or thinking photographers should pay them to shoot them. What the fuck for? What are you bringing to the table that tons and tons of models before you (and most certainly after you) can’t bring to the table? What is it about you that makes you the “it” model of the moment? The model that is not signed usually and can’t get the campaigns. What is it about you? (Hence the title of this blog).

Models only seem to know about a handful of agencies (and trust me ladies and gentlemen, there are HUNDREDS of agencies out there)… The ones that are usually tossed around are Ford, Elite, Wilhemina, DNA, IMG, etc and the unsigned model has that lofty idea that they are going to walk into one of those agencies and the bookers are going to fall at their feet and offer them the illustrious contract in which they think they deserve. Guess what, models. It RARELY happens. These agencies are inundated with thousands upon thousands of modeling hopefuls that they turn down, so to think that in the possible SLIM chance you’re going to be that one is highly unlikely. Impossible? No. But highly improbable.

The reason this blog came into fruition, an unsigned black male model I shot came to me talking about he wants to be with Ford, Elite or DNA. I had to stop him in mid-sentence and look at him. First off, they think just because they’re signed with Ford, or Elite or DNA they are going to start raking in the money. So I humored him. I brought up DNA Model Management’s website. Just so he can see the roster. On the website, there were two black male models. Only two. Let me put it to you like this: only two obviously black models. So I turned to him and said, “DNA? Really? I can guarantee you a month ago, you didn’t even know who hell DNA Model Management was. Somebody filled your head with a bunch of blue chip agencies, you wiggled your ass in front of a couple of photographers and now you think you can enter that world. Guess what? You’re handsome, yes, but did you take a look at their board to see if you (a) have what it takes and (b) compete with the two STUNNINGLY beautiful black models that they already have?” Models, again, do your homework. Not all agencies are a good fit for you and vice versa. Pay attention to what they are looking for (if you went to Silver Model Management, for example, you would KNOW they wanted muscled out bodies, so if you were 6’2, 150 editorially built, why in the world would you go there?) If you look at a roster, you will see some sort of common denominator amongst models (it could be body type, it could be facial structure, it could be age, it could be national origin). You have to see if you can fit your peg into their hole. I know its wonderful to think big and lofty and you’re going to be “the one” to break the mold. I applaud you in that aspect, however, when you are applying to some of these agencies, they are looking at you in a money making capacity. If you’re unable to make them money, they are unable to do anything for you.

Time and time again, models send me photos for me to evaluate them. I see gang tats, tats covering more than 60 percent of their body surface (right up into the neck region [Ralph Lauren would LOVE that]), body piercings, eye brows with parts, long unkempt hair, du-rags, braids, gold fronts, bodies that are too short, too big, too skinny, bad skin, crooked teeth, slightly crossed eyed, ill body proportions the list can go on endlessly. However, you want IMG, DNA, Ford, Elite and Wilhemina to sign you? As my father would say “get the fuck outta here!”

This is a very competitive field ladies and gentlemen. And if you don’t have the goods you better (a) get out now or (b) get it together so you DO have the goods.

Here is a to do list.

1. Do you homework. Check out all types of agencies, you may be able to work your way up to one of the blue chips. Don’t frown upon a boutique agency you can learn a lot and they can mold you on the nature of the business.

2. You are a product. Take care of it accordingly. Modeling (unlike bodybuilding) is a year round job. Take care of your face, skin, hands, feet, body. Keep your drinking, drugging, smoking to a minimum. No one wants to see a tired, washed out model on their campaign or in front of a photographer’s lens.

3. Listen to those to can honestly help you. You will come across a lot of people telling you a lot of unnecessary information. The world is incredibly small. Do you homework. See if these people who say they can help you can honestly help you. If they are in positions to help you, that means they see potential. Don’t waste their time.

4. Study your craft. You should breathe, eat, sleep modeling. That is not only your job – it should be your LIFE. Find out who the “it” models are and find out why. Elevate your game. Study walks, magazines, campaigns, etc. Stay on the pulse of the industry.

5. Invest in your career. That can be getting a gym membership to paying a good photographer to photograph you, to working with a runway coach. A single picture can make the difference between booking a job and seeing the front door. A bad walk and you are laughed at. Talented photographers invest their time, energy and artistry to produce good quality images for your portfolio. So invest and invest wisely. Keep your book current and all photos should be “oh my God” status.

6. Speaking of photographers. Not everyone with a camera is necessarily a photographer, be careful who you decide to let photograph you. If they are not going to elevate your book, don’t waste your time. The true motto is this: Test up, don’t test down.

7. Watch who your friends are. This industry is very very small and the internet has made it even smaller. You have no idea who may know whom. So be careful about what you say and who you say it to. A simple dismissive conversation may come back to haunt you.

8. Build lasting relationships. Loyalty is a viable commodity in this industry. If you are developing lasting mutual relationships with bookers, agents, photographers, etc. keep them alive. You may be the next one for that campaign merely because you’re a friend of the right person. Most times it’s not what you know, it’s who you know.

9. Be patient, be diligent, and be thick skinned. You will receive a lot of rejections in this industry. It is up to you to be strong. Every rejection is a learning process. Not every model is right for every job. A career is not made overnight. Don’t think you’re going to shoot on Monday and by Thursday you’re running to the bank to cash that Prada campaign check. It doesn’t work that way.

10. Be loyal. I cannot stress that enough. Thank those who took their time, money, energy, connections and knowledge to invest in you. Those who arrange photo shoots with photographers who would’ve turned you away. Those who pulled strings to have a booker meet with you. The people behind the scenes. Be loyal to the ones that believed in you, because when the chips are down (and trust me, there will be some dark times). Those will be the ones you can always rely on. Never shit on them, even as you grow and excel in your career, never forget where you came from.

Whew… Time to get back to photos. Until next time. Next up...

Brandon Espy - the Grown and Sexy Shoot

MODELING AND THE UGLY FAT CHICK

First off my dear fans, I apologize for not writing sooner. There have been so many things going on in my life (both professional and personal) that I could not get to this blog sooner than March. With all the horrible weather we’ve been getting in New York this winter, I am so surprised that there hasn’t been a bunch of suicides because of seasonal depression. I can guarantee one thing though; there will be a tremendous baby boom sometime in the fall.

I digress. I knew that as soon as I titled this blog: “Modeling and the Ugly Fat Chick” it was going to make waves. This blog is essentially what happens to models (especially males) when they don’t play the game. This is not a fat bashing blog entry and it's not a gay bashing blog entry. It is merely calling a spade a spade and it is up to you, dear models, to make the decision if you wish to play in this arena.

It is no surprise that the modeling industry is run by the homosexual community. Some of the most powerful people in fashion (approximately 85 – 90%) are homosexuals. This starts at the top with designers, stylists, agency owners, agency bookers, photographers, makeup artists, hair stylists, runway coaches, show promoters, etc. and the list can go on and on and on. We know that. If it wasn’t for the gay community, the world would honestly have no fashion. So what new wisdom could I possibly extol on you, you wish to know?

Well, when it comes to the male model, there a large sector who are gay, also. So to be in a world surrounded by homosexuals, some will feel right at home (provided, of course, they don’t deliver that certain je ne sais quoi on camera – check out one of my earlier posts – GATEKEEPER TO THE GODS http://dallasjlogan.blogspot.com/2009/02/bookers-gatekeepers-to-gods.html). But the handful of male models who are not gay, this causes the inevitable issue.

If any of you know me personally, or have read any of my previous posts know that when I have a photo session, I liken it to making love. My usual spiel is “It is my job as the photographer to make you feel desirable, wanted, sexy, etc. It is your job to convey that emotion back to me, and it is my job to capture it. The better the love making the better the babies [pictures] will be.” This doesn’t matter to me if the model is male or female. It is just a fact.

And if you know me, you also heard this: “Make your booker fall in love with you.” Doesn’t matter if they are a man or woman, gay or straight. The bottom line is this: If your booker loves you, they will send you out. If not, you will sit on their roster and collect dust. It is just that simple. I frequently have had models calling me lamenting over their treatment at agencies and their booker and I can guarantee you in a series of two or three pointed questions, I can usually get to the root of the issue.

Question 1: Is your booker male or female?
Answer: Male.

Question 2: Is your booker gay?
Answer: Yes.

Question 3: Are you gay?
Answer: No.

And therein lies the issue. It doesn’t take rocket science. Men (both gay and straight) think with their penis with regards to looks. Personally, if we were able to separate the two, the modeling industry will be a lot better off, but we are drawn by our instincts. If a booker happened to approach you as you are walking down the street, chances are he found you attractive. Doesn’t matter if you’re a model or not. Same holds true for a photographer. We have to find something about you that is attractive enough for us to want to shoot you and for a booker to show interest. Most times it has nothing to do with looks, but with sexual appeal. If bookers were able to separate that, I can guarantee you that you would see a wider range of diversity when it comes to model boards. Look at some of the modeling rosters. Once you’ve start putting names of models faces to the bookers who’ve “discovered” them, you will start to see a trend and you will also start noticing the booker’s taste. So let’s say you are the “taste” of the booker, however, you’re not gay? You better believe that you better become gay-friendly and become gay-friendly fast. Am I telling you to go against the moral fiber of your being? No. Am I telling you to have sex with the booker? No (that is RIDICULOUS). But I will tell you one thing. You better learn how to flirt – hence the title of this blog.

It is a sexually charged dance that goes on between a booker and a model and the models that dance that dance will have a lot more going for them than the model that doesn’t. So what do you do? Flirt back and think of the booker as the ugly fat chick. The ugly fat chick has something you need (work) and though you have no sexual desires for the ugly fat chick — and that is okay, however, if you don’t flirt and learn to play the game, the next model that will flirt will book the job. You know you'll never fuck her, but it doesn't hurt to flirt. A little eye fucking and a lunch or two will go a loooooooooooooong way to getting what you want. A well placed hand, a lingering handshake, hell even a late night phone call expressing interests in the booker’s day will put you in the forefront of their mind when a client contacts them for the next campaign or editorial. You want to be that new face? You want to be the model every designer books? You want to be the one to grace the runways during Fashion Week? You want to be in front of that camera of that well known photographer? Learn to flirt. Learn to play and your career can sky rocket. If you don’t believe me, just test it out.

So the next time you feel that your booker just isn’t feeling you. Ask yourself. Did you flirt?

P.S.
There will be more to come… Remember these names in my future blogs (Recent Models Who've Graced My Camera):


Brandon Espy


Svitlana Glebova


Justin Hingleton


Jalicia Nightengale