Wednesday, February 18, 2009

WHEN YOU WORK WITH YEIKOV YOU NEVER HAVE TO ASK Y...

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And I will tell you why! New York's Yeikov Bermudez's work is eclectic, exciting, thought provoking, striking, rich, steamy, hot, colorful, playful, sensual, sexy. And this is all going on in ONE FACE.

To see his work, his signature style is legendary. You would only have to see it once, and you would never forget it. He makes it a point never to repeat anything twice, so if you come to him and ask, you may get flip of the neck, a wave of a hand and a dazzling smile, but you won't get the same exact makeup creation. However, when he is done with you, you won't be disappointed. To him each face speaks to him in a series of lines, angles and complexions. To ask him why he does what he does, he may answer with a "why not?"

I've been trying to work with Yeikov (sounds like "jerk off" but with a Y), and finally our planets aligned. I was told by my agent that I needed to "upgrade" my beauty so I could be shopped to a higher clientele, I thought of no one I wanted to work with more than Mr. Bermudez. He is easy going, a team player and most of all, he understands the market place and what is needed to make something come alive (he also does amazing hair). All make up artists can put on eyeliner, blush, lipstick and mascara, however, when Yeikov does it, it like watching a Piscasso masterpiece being born. Visit his work and each and every time you will go "damn!!!! How does he do it?" Well, ladies and gentlemen, he is about to tell us how.

So don't ask Why can't I get some Y! Just get it and you will never have to ask why again.

Yeikov can be reached at

What made you get into the make up game?

So a Game is what we call it now, ha? Well this is no game to me. But to answer your question, my story is kind of different. I was discovered by another amazing make up artist Mitch Rosado in my hometown of Puerto Rico. I was 14 and he said that I had a lot of potential. I had the honor and the pleasure of assisting him and in the beginning I was very reluctant but the curiosity had more willpower and I went on to discover the power of makeup. I discovered the drug that ruled my life, since then I’M hooked.

Who were some of your major influences in this business?

After I've learned a little bit from him and from some of my other friends, I was very influence by Thierry Mugler. I know you’re asking yourself Thiery Mugler isn’t he a fashion designer? I don't follow. Well let me explain. I have always been interested in painting, drawing, comics and fashion - amongst other things and one of my favorite designers that was happening at that time was him and I felt that he was a revolutionary in his craft in bringing the world of makeup and fashion together. So I was very inspired by him and the way his creations mixed with makeup. Even when the faces were “clean” you could still see the elaborate makeup. I also went to school of fashion design and I had to study many other designers like Gianni Versace, Vivian Westwood, Jean Paul Gautier, Galiano, Gucci and Yamamotho. Like others, I was always looking for inspirations to express myself in a different way. Now I look more into everybody and everything that surrounds me and I find inspiration for me somehow. I try to meet as many people as possible in the industry of fashion, makeup and photography and to be part of different creations and I think in the art of photography and makeup is where I can stamp my “name” using makeup for other people to see and to get inspired by as well. I think other people can inspire me when they make their own art.

If you could only take one makeup brand with you on a deserted island, what would it be and why?

Damn, why this question? It is so hard to make a choice. I don't marry any one company because for me makeup is makeup and I have things in my kit things that range from 99¢ to $150.00. Personally, I believe that is not the product, it’s what you can do with it. In this business I have done makeup from weddings which is all about beauty in a very real way to commercial to theater to photography to body paint so I cannot choose only one company cause it depends on the job that I have to do and if you know what that product can do for you, you can use the product to your benefit. But to answer your question (laughs) I would have to say MAKEUP FOR EVER. Why? Well as for now they are coming with the newest foundations for today’s technology. For example television – even High Definition, print, fashion, theater and everyday wear.

Name any model (dead or living) that you would love to paint and why?

Wow these are very hard questions, whats up with that, Dallas? Do you have a whole day to read the list of all the models that I would want to work with? (laughs) Dead and alive… hmmm. My favorite models of all time are LindaEvangelista (the true chameleon of fashion), Naomi, Tyra , Cindy, Grace Jones, Andrea Lima - should I continue? Why? Well where do I start? FIERCENESSSS!!!!! (multiple S is deliberate). Can we talk about celebrity as well? Aaaah and what happen to the new generation of models. I work with everybody and anybody, babe, and for me it’s all about creating and models are only part of the work. There is also the story behind the shoot for me to do my work.

Your makeup has been called "over-the-top". Do you agree or disagree? And why?

That is great, it doesn't matter if it’s called “over-the-top” or not. At least I’m FINALLY getting some recognition (laughs). But what is up with all the labelism? It’s great that I had been called “over-the-top” but let me ask you: Have you ever heard of someone that doesn’t do things "over-the-top" become recognized?

I think that is my personality (smiles and touches his hand to his chest). I have done things from brides to over-the-top makeup in this industry. I’ve also worked at a makeup counter for many years which let me appreciated different aspects of makeup. So, I think that for me it’s more about creating what is expected from me and at all times adding just a little bit of me in the mix. With the personality of my clients and the idea of what is behind it. For me is not about the makeup anymore, I am nothing without models and photographers and art directors and stylists and hair stylists. I feel that it is more teamwork from brides (that sometimes can be obnoxious if if you don't know how to deal with them [laughs]) to very high-end professionals that also have more stress because of deadlines. What I’m trying to say here is this: I have worked with many people and I guess I had post my more “interesting” work around and besides that, it’s part of who I am - so I put part of me as much as possible you know? I have a different philosophy on life so I enjoy what I do as much as I can in different ways but I think this is the best way that I want to be recognized and rememebered in the world by being different and putting in my 2 cents. Why only do simple work when there is another world I can mix with it? I want to be recognized by my work so when you see it in a magazine, video, model or celebrity you will KNOW that I did it! It’s like putting a signature to it. For me it’s all about the experience of working with as many people as possible and giving a little bit of myself, you know? I think that I love to create and when I meet a team that trusts me enough to let me express myself within the parameters of the job is when I can give it my all. But some people may see it as “over-the-top” and I'm cool with that, but what they don't know is what is happening in my head at that precise moment. I think it creates more pressure for me to be better and each model (canvas) is different so it’s more of an adjustment of the idea with the hair, the model with the makeup. That’s the real trick.

I will put it like this: it is my name that is out there and I’m hoping that the work is good enough to be accepted by others in a good or bad way, again most of my work is about the art, the editorial which is great. It is kind of like saying I think I have a couple of personalities like John Galiano who is in charge of two clothing houses, Christian Dior and his own clothing label and both of them are completely different but you still know that both of them are the same at the end and he still works with fabric and creating for everyday wear and more couture so in my case its all about makeup

If there was one thing you can change about the makeup industry what would it be?

I would love for women to embrace the use of more color freely, instead of trying to be natural at all times. Woman have the advantage when it comes to clothing, hair and makeup and I feel that they are not getting the best of it. They choose to be plain and simple when they can be gorgeous at all time. I'm not asking that every woman out there spend an hour on their look but you can do eyeliner and lipstick today, mascara and lip gloss tomorrow and choose so many combinations to look different. When it comes to men we are completely screwed because we can only be sport, elegant or casual and we only have pants and shirts to wear - when woman have an immense variety of clothing and accessories to choose from.

What is the most embarrassing thing that has ever happened to you (with regards to makeup)?

I used to work at a makeup counter for five years and this one time a bride came in to have her makeup done by me. It was the first time that we met and she had heard about me and I asked her where she was going and she said “I'm going to a wedding.” So I did the routine questions of what she would be wearing and she said she was wearing white. She didn't speak too much and she was very quiet. When I was finished with her makeup I made the comment “Oh my God! You look fierce! The bride is going to hate you! You look stunning!” and she turns to me and says “what you mean that the bride is going to hate me? I AM THE BRIDE!”

For me that was one of the most embarrassing moments because I had to do her face all over again even though she loved the makeup that I did, I had to explain to her that the previous application was more for someone to attend the weeding - not for the bride-to-be. She ended up loving the Bride makeup for sure and she completely understood the difference. Whew!

Finish this phrase. Make up to me is....

Makeup to me is my HUSBAND, WIFE, LOVER, LIVE, HOBBY, WORK. In other words makeup for me is everything and then some.

It most certainly is, Y, it most certainly is.

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Model: Jamila
Hair: Anatalia Fernandez
Photographer: Y? Creations


This picture is very special to me in many ways. I know this model and I know who she is as a person and she is beautiful in the inside as well as the outside and here I only accentuated her beauty like her eyes and lips and skin. The beautiful thing about it this is that this model is only 15 and i think i was able to immortalize her age and make this picture timeless. If I didn’t tell you her age, you might not look at the picture again or you might. But that is the point of it I did create beauty without losing the model and for me she is a chameleon which brings my work to life.

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Model: Cari Braxton
Stylist: Keva
Photographer: Zephyr for Zeo Productions


Working with her was an an amazing experience. The photographer give me all liberty of what to do in the makeup. She mentioned that she wanted it all over the top and for me to be as wild as I want it to be. The wadrobe that was made by Keva. Even though the makeup here is over the top, I think that everything fits in place without overpowering one another and the model is was fierce that she can handle the make up and then some. She made my work so easy and the vibe here was fierce!

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Model: Amber Rivera
Stylist: Butch Johnson
Photographer: Dallas J. Logan


Hmmmmm… Let them Have it Ms.Amber! To this date this is one of my most awesome team projects. Wee were there to create some FIERCENESS in the house and everybody was ON POINT! It was so awesome. Butch Johnson worked his magic with the clothing and she LIVED IT! I just followed what was there and did what I had to do. I did my things for sure (laughs) I loved this and of course Dallas lit it and captured it exquisitely. So what more to said? Ahhh the behind the scene on this is awesome. ;')


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Model: Lymarie
Styling/Photography: Sta'fon Shamayim


So here is when my mind goes to another planet. This photographer pushes my limits to a level that i cannot explain. The way he see fashion is brilliant! He knows what he wants and he styles it his on way but he he shows me a picture and says “Yeikov this is your inspiration with this clothing and accesories. This is Lymarie and she will rock this out. Do your thing.” Ok do I really need to tell you how was my experience on this one? I think I would write waaaaay too much. What can I say? I love my work ;')


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Model: Anya
Stylist: Truman
Photographer: Laretta Houston


Ok here is another HALLARATION! I LIVE FOR THIS! This picture is what will describe my personality the most. This for me was a very real and BRILLIANT! Each time that I can reunite with a team like this is just a mind-blowing creation I beleive that you put three different minds that collide with each other without overpowering one another - combining a little bit of everything is a mixture of control and de-control in its usage of the words passion, elegnace mystery, glamour, edge versatility, fashion sexuality and sensuality. This picture represents a style and again was another special work that when all the pices came together the magic just flowed. It is always a pleasure working with Laretta Houston. Her mind is a Panodra Box. She, like me, is very visiual and she wants to capture something hot with the model in a Fashion way. She will ask for you to please her in a very extraordinary manner, She has a book of ideas that she works at all time so from there she picks her next shoot, then she comunicates the idea to Mr Truman who has an amazing mind when it comes to fashion and with his exquisite mind he brings the clothing and accesories to make the shoot happen and he know how much is enough for the idea. Anya was just in her element wjem she said to me; “Yeikov whatever you do I will sell it to you. Put as much makeup as you want. You know I know you will. Do your thing.” I came here cause I live for you was the thought in my head “Ok I’m just going to let your face speak to me and I will stop when is done.” I’m not sure when is that but I will, and I just let mind flow.


Thursday, February 12, 2009

BOOKERS - THE GATEKEEPERS TO THE GODS

Model:  Kendy Almy

There is a definite hierarchy in the modeling industry. Every model wants to be the new face of a product (be it clothing, perfume, sports drink). Every booker wishes to be the one to discover that new face, and ultimately every photographer wishes to be the one to capture that image that launched that career. But the bottom line is (or I guess in this instance, the top line is), it is all about what the client wants and in that instance, the client is the God of the industry.

Clients can be very particular in who they want to represent their product. It is never a fly-by-night decision, because millions upon millions of dollars are married to the project of finding the face. There are castings, auditions, panels and sometimes even focus groups. So by the time you saw the billboards and magazine advertisements of Pierre Woods as the new African American face of Ralph Lauren, a lot of behind the scenes maneuvering went on to make that dream a reality.

The artistic/creative director sends out a casting call. Looking for the New Face of [fill in the blanks]. We want him to be this tall, this build, this complexion, this age. They are very specific. They go to all the agencies around the country (and some times around the world) to find this model. Every agency submit their best in hopes of their agency securing the job. Sometimes a rebel agency may submit a model that was not the description needed in hopes that maybe, just maybe the artistic/creative director may see this renegade model and go “hey, wait a minute. THIS IS THE ONE!” This kind of casting goes on everyday from casting for an underwear model, to the faces that grace the runway of any major city Fashion Week.

The entry into this arena are held by a very small, chosen and powerful group of men and women known as the Bookers. They decide who the client will and will not see. They decide who gets picked up and signed to an agency. They decide who they wish to invest their time, energy and resources in. It is a demanding job. It is a very powerful job. It can also be a very narrow-minded position as well.

When it comes to selecting a model, each Booker has in mind what they think should be the “it” face at the time. While Booker A may choose a model that is a little more buff, Booker B will turn that model away for the same exact reason. I’ve seen this happened even within the same agency. It all boils down to the matter of taste. There isn’t a blueprint that a Booker may follow that will determine if a model becomes a signed entity or not, because if that were the case, all the models would look alike and the agencies would look like a microcosmos of Chelsea. There have been times that I’ve submitted some beautiful models to agencies, only to have them say “thanks, but no thanks.” Being a photographer, I don’t have the “Booker” eye. I just see beauty and I just pass the beauty on to the Gatekeepers in hope that they will like the model. One unsigned model I photographed (who is tragically beautiful) was turned down by a major New York agency. I asked why, because this young man wasn’t just beautiful by let’s say New York standards, he was galatically beautiful (even the Martians could not deny this young man looks). The Booker was uninterested. His reasoning? “To femme. My clients would not want to use him.” How did this Booker know that? Does the appearance of this particular model, femme or not negate the ability of him selling a particular item in the right market? Most of the models in the big campaigns are not the most masculine fellows out there. That means, because the Booker didn’t like the model (even though he did agree that the model was indeed beautiful), it turned out not to be his personal taste. Once I understood that, when he did send me models to shoot, I saw a particular pattern of the types of models in which he liked. They were usually urban, rough around the edges, streety and a bit thug like – one model even had gang tattoos on his body and face. So the model I presented to him would have never had a chance, merely because he didn’t fit the criteria for what this particular Booker liked. However, when I saw this model, he could easily be placed in a Dolce & Gabanna campaign, Calvin Klein, Gucci or even Prada. But because he was of delicate nature and not thugged out enough, the Booker had no use for him. Was he good looking? Yes, tragically so. Was he the correct height? Yes. The correct weight? Yes. The correct look? Yes. The correct type? That depends on who you decide to ask. This will be a heated debate for times to come.

I find myself being the unsung hero for the unsigned models that have potential. I know that when I photograph a model and immediately get inquiries, that the model has something. The Booker may not agree to it, but the something cannot be denied. I then personally take it upon myself to advocate for the “turned down” models, because believe me when I say I push and push and push and once the model is signed, and is working, I usually go back the Booker that turned them down and say: “remember so and so? He’s the new face of…. [fill in the blanks]”

Some turned down faces looking for a home. Believe me when I say that it won’t be for long.

Desil:
Dremmler Desil Revisited

Neo:
Neo Cropped Head Shot

Goldin:
Model:  Goldin

Guillaume:
Model: Guillaume

Edwin:
Model:  Edwin Pierrot

Courtney:
Model: Courtney Smalls

Lavante:

Model:  Lavante Isaac

Alexis Jorge:
Model:  Alexis Jorge (AJ)

Boyce:
Model:  Boyce for Durant

Saturday, February 7, 2009

BUTCH UP YOUR SHOOT...

There is no other way to explain it. It's hotness. It's clean. It's superb. It's supreme! (Sorry about the rhyme - it fits). It is Butch Johnson, up and coming New York fashion stylist (soon to be internationally known - he is going to Europe soon to create editorial hotness over there). Mr. Johnson is based out of Brooklyn and he is here to discuss with us the eye in which he brings to a photoshoot.

Stylists, makeup artists and hairstylists are the unsung heroes of the fashion world. The only time they seem to get noticed is when something is wrong (for example, the hair clip left in the jacket sleeve of the model in the big Ralph Lauren campaign - just how many eyes did that advertisement had to pass before going to print?). When an image is completely brought together and all the elements involve weave into a symbiotic masterpiece, you notice the ENTIRE image. When something is off (any where), the glaring faux-pas jump out at you like a screaming sprite waiting to be notice.

I am fortunate enough to have worked with Mr. Johnson on many of my shoots and each and every time he has raised the bar. With a keen eye to detail, the understanding of colors and textures right down to the architectural line of the garment, he labors over each and every style choice, and when the decision is made, and the styling is done, you realized that Mr. Johnson has just Butched up the hell out of your photoshoot.

How long have you been doing styling?
About two and a half years.

Really? From the looks of it, you've seem to be a veteran at this. Why does it appear so?
Growing up I hated going outside and playing with the other kids, if given the choice I'd stay inside and watch television. Especially the old hollywood classics where everyone wore amazing clothes. In my early teens I became addicted to fashion magazines. Like most teens throughout history you had a choice, look like the herd or stick out like a sore thumb and deal with the consequences. I chose the the latter. So to answer the question, I believe that I became conscience of what the clothes should "feel" like in the final image.

What are some of the mistakes do you see in fashion today?
A mistaken belief that in order to have style you have to be rail thin.

If given the choice to work with ANY designer alive or dead, who would it be and why?
Cristobal Balenciaga. For me hands down probably one of the more influential couturiers in fashion history. His innovative style and cut of fabric, gave the world the balloon dress, the cocoon coat and the high waisted baby doll dress; which stood in sharp contrast to the breezy lightness of his fellow designers of the time. I mean can you imagine working with a designer who redefined the silhouette of women's wear. A woman can be chic in Balenciaga no matter what her body shape was.

How did you get into styling?
One of my best friends who was a budding photographer at the time needed an assistant on a shoot in prospect park. I thought that I was there to hold a reflector and do the running around that needed to be done. I jump in the jeep to take us to the park where I met the model and another photographer and then I'm introduced as "and this is Butch our STYLIST" and the rest is........

What do you look for when you look at a finely styled photograph?
When it's someone else's work, the first thing I think is how do I feel about what I'm seeing. Do I want to be this person wearing the clothes or would I just want to run away and hide.

Name some 5 of your favorite stylists and why?
  1. Paul Cavaco- Humble roots New Yorker that went where style took him and did well by it.
  2. Carine Roitfeld- Very chic, completely intuitive.
  3. Grace Coddington. A brilliant, skilled perfectionist
  4. Tonne Goodman. Very simple esthetic
  5. Joe Zee. He's the reason why we loved W as a monthly publication

Q. If you could work with any photographer alive or dead who would it be?
Dead Cecil Beaton, alive Steven Meisel.

Complete this phrase. Style is.....
Style is stepping away from the herd in ones own unique way.

Melissa Bake

Melissa Baker/George Favios: It was a great glamourous shot. One of those images that looked better in reality than it does in your mind. Thank you to Celestino (www.celestinocouture.com) for the gown and Adha Zelma (www.adhazelma.com) for the jewelry.

Model:  Jazzma Kendrick

Jazzma Hendricks: This shot made me come outside my "dad" zone. She came out of the dressing room and the dress barely covered her ass. The photographer came up to me and said "are you out of your mind, she looks HOT! We are shooting this!" The rest is history.

Model: Catherine Frances Scott

Catherine Frances Scott: Jewelry. We were inspired by a Christina Aguilera photo (Vincent Peters for Stephen Webster jewelry) and wanted to see how close we can get with our own spin. I think we did damn good.

Model:  Jon Hylton

Jon Hylton: Jon Hylton was a surprise shoot that happened summer of '08. This model from Calgary needed some new photos. He had some clothes. I had some clothes. We made some magic.

Ford Model:  Sarah Blessing

Sarah Blessing: When everything wrong goes right. I prepped for this shoot weeks in advance. Clothes were brought for a size two. She walked in a size six. We were also planning on shooting in front of Brooklyn Museum, but it was raining heavily that day. Thank goodness I am an overshopper and was able to pull off several looks to create a story and Dallas Logan (photographer) came up with the ingenious plan of using a old working warehouse space we once based out of. This was the result of that shoot (the guy was an actual worker who joined the shot) and what she brought to the shoot was stellar. Sarah was a really good model.

He can be reached at butchjohnsonstyle@gmail.com

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

RATES - YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR...

I know as I say this I am speaking for approximately 95% of all professional photographers. Not part-time photographers, not hobbyist who take good pictures and certainly not passionate GWCs (guys/girls with cameras). I am speaking about professional photographers who are serious and passionate about their craft and artistry.

If we all had our choice, we would shoot everything and everyone until our heart's content and at the end of the day, most of us do not make a lot of money in this profession. We do it because we love it. However, there comes a time in our career that we will have to charge for our services. If you want quality images, shots from a quality photographer, be willing to invest in your career.

I was recently asked about a rate for a shoot. And I will give a hypothetical break down.

Rate: $700
Wardrobe: 3 looks. Hair/Makeup/Styling provided.
Location: Studio in Williamsburg Brooklyn, and other surrounding locations.
Final Product:
Proof: You will have 40-50 edited images to select from
Retouch: You will select 10 images for retouching.
Turn Around: Average one week
Additional looks - $100

This is a basic breakdown that I may charge a model. First words out of their mouth? Damn, why so much? I don't walk away with the entire $700.00 in my pocket. I wish I did.

So from that shoot of 700.00 guess what? I have a crew that has to be paid:

Hair/Makeup: (If I am lucky to get a two-for-one) 150.00 (and this is my crew cutting their rates for me)
Stylist: 150.00
Studio Rental: 100.00
Assistant: 50.00
Catering Service: 50.00 (the crew has GOT to be fed)
Total: 450.00
Balance Remaining: 250.00 (that is what I walk away with, if I am lucky)

Here is my hourly rate:

Shooting time: Approximately 4 hours (this is setting up lights, hair makeup and shooting time and break down)
Retouching time for 10 images: Approximately 10 hours.
Total amount of time: 14 hours
Hourly rate: 250.00 divided by 14 hours. Approximately 17.50 an hour.

This is why/how photographers make their money. We also have to invest in ourselves. Every single camera does the same thing (from the iPhone to the Hassleblad). The better the equipment, the better the image. So what do we do as photographers? We invest in our business. I recently purchased a new camera (Canon 5D Mark II). It is an amazing piece of machinery. Guess what it cost me? $4250.00

Camera: $2,700.00
Insurance: $300.00
Battery grip: $300.00
Software upgrade: $250.00
Memory card upgrade: $400.00
Tax: $300.00

Our equipment does not come to us for free, nor is it cheap. You come to us because we were able to produce images of the highest quality. If we are lucky, we may get images for our book. Most often we are approached by models who are less-than-worthy quality, however, with our hocus-pocus of special lighting, superb makeup/hair/styling and retouching skills, we can transform some people into superstars.

Now ask me why I charge what I charge. Or why any photographer charges what they charge. Invest in your careers models, we do.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

SHAMAR FORTE - LET HIM BE YOUR "INSIDE MAN"

New York singer/songwriter/model/actor Shamar Forte is on the scene promoting his new promo album "The Inside Man." I've known Shamar for a couple of years and I watched his growth as an artist and human-being as he battled it out in the New York City music scene. Quiet and humble by nature, when he opened his mouth, one could not help to think of sounds of Anthony Hamilton and John Legend. But Shamar wants to carve out his own Forte sound.

I've photographed Shamar in the past for his portfolio and each time we've worked together, Shamar always wanted to do something different and push the envelope. One of my "famous" pictures were actually taken of Shamar (the Silverman). At the time, he just got back from Chicago doing a run of The Wiz and he was the Tin Man. They painted his face silver and it gave him the idea. What would it look like if I covered my whole body? He sought me out to take that photograph.

I told him that if we did that, he would have to be nude. It would look odd to have his face and hands painted and him be clothed in any way. He said; "let's do it. When I photograph with you, you make me feel comfortable, that I can do anything." That session, I broke out the body paint and had the pain-staking task of painting him literally from head to toe (almost two hours). I didn't want to show all his nakedness in the photograph, so I found an old dryer exhaust hose and wrapped it around him. The effect was nothing less than amazing.

My 1,000th Image!  Titanium Man

When he approached me this time, he wanted something different to promote his album. Something a little more "grown and sexy". He wanted a photo session that gave you the feel of the R&B singers of the 80s a la Johnny Gill and we set off to do just that. No studio backdrops, nothing modelesque. Just something moody, contemplative and sexy. I teamed up with New York stylist Kareem James and with a simple beauty dish, we set forth to create a feeling of R&B hotness. Ladies and gentlemen I present to you Shamar Forte your "Inside Man."

Model:  Shamar Forte

Model:  Shamar Forte  (1,500th Image)

Model:  Shamar Forte

Model:  Shamar Forte

Monday, February 2, 2009

WHEN TOO TALL IS TALL ENOUGH - DEVONE STEPHENSON

The modeling industry has set up a series of standards of what is known as the "ideal." There is an ideal height, weight, structure and look and in some cases, race. Once this "ideal" is established and becomes the norm, models change, contort, starve, remove, augment, bleach, dye, dermabrase until they meet the "ideal" with the hope of being the next "one".

That's easy when you're a little overweight. You diet, you exercise, you liposuction. If your breast are too large, you can reduce them. If your nose is unsatisfactory, you can make adjustments. You can bleach your skin, or you can tan. What do you do when you're too short - if you're lucky you can wear heels - Kate Moss can attest to that, however, what do you do when you're too tall?

To quote the illustrious Orenthel - the Fashion expert - "... you can't be too tall. Nobody wants an unfinished inseam..." and he is absolutely right, so the models who are 6'3 (because the cut off is 6'2) fudge their statistics in hopes of getting fashion jobs. But what if you're taller than 6'3, or even 6'4 for that matter? What if you're 6'8?

No. It wasn't a typo. What if you're 6'8? You already know that Prada and Gucci are not going to book you, and you learn to accept that fact that you will not be gracing anyones run way with the latest fashion trends, however, what if you have the goods, but you are outside the box of the "ideal"?

You embrace what God has given you and take it to another arena and that is what Mr. Devone Stephenson of New York plans to do. Mr. Stephenson is affectionately known in the model circles as Six Eight (not original, but hey, it works).

Mr. Stephenson is an impressive size. 6'8, 210 of solid muscle. He has a 30 inch waist, and 44 inch chest and the build that even Superman would have to take notice. His first love is basketball and from time to time plays semi-pro ball. He is also a personal trainer and mentor to New York's urban youth. I've always been told about this model "Six Eight" but being in the fashion industry, I had no desire to shoot him whatsoever. I could never get anyone to clothe a body like that. Any model I would pair him with he would dominate the frame and anything I would decide to shoot with him would have to be some sort of wide angle lens. The second time he was brought to my attention was through New York makeup artist and skin care expert Romell Duresseau http://www.myspace.com/romell4face, and again, I actually turned down the assignment. I saw no interest for it. Third attempt, I shot another "vertically challenged" (euphemism for "too damn short") model and then I came under the radar of Six Eight. I kindly thank him for liking my work, but still no desire. Well, as they say, "the fourth times a charm," and I had the chance to actually meet him face to face. I instantly fell in love with his look, his demeanor and his spirit. Sometimes it is not about what is on the outside, it is on the inside. There was a fire inside of Devone and it needed to be photographed. Devone lamented over the problems he had with photographers shooting him. It was either for their own sexual trangressions, or their skills were not up to par to capture the true model that he was.

I decided to change all of that. I discussed with Devone that he can give it up in the fashion world and head towards commercial and fitness (models that don't fit the norm - please take note). It is totally okay that you are not a fashion model. Go where the money is. When Devone walked into the hotel room he actually had to duck his head down to avoid connecting with the door frame. As he stood before me, he tried his best to slouch and make himself appear smaller. I immediately put a stop to that. "Embrace what God has given you. I will capture it."

A cold Saturday morning at Third Ward Studios in Williamsburg Brooklyn, I decided to take my time and work with Devone, teaching him how to embrace his body and all its muscled out loveliness. Embrace the line of his form. He may never be a Marcus Schenkenberg or Jon Kortajarena, but he will have a lot to bring to the commercial and fitness modeling scene.

Be on the look out for Mr. Stephenson at a Nike campaign near you.

Model:  Devone Stephenson

Model:  Devone Stephenson

Model:  Devone Stephenson



Model:  Devone Stephenson

MARKISS DENTMOND - THE ONE TO WATCH OUT FOR

You can spot a face anywhere. It can be at the supermarket, the local deli, or even Myspace. They can come as a recommendation, or even a casting call. The magic of the face is this: When you see it - you see it. When you know it - you know it. When they have it - they have it! Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you Markiss Dentmond of Virgina Beach, Va.

Markiss comes from the Island of St. Kitts and you can see with his rich cocoa coloring and exquisite chisled features that his ancenstry runs deep within his veins. His body is supreme and his command of the camera can be rivaled with the most seasoned of models today.

I had the pleasure of shooting Markiss upon his visit to New York. We had a mutual friend make an informal introdution - thank you Tim Johnson - however, my relationship was built with Mr. Dentmond through a series of Myspace emails. I liked his determination, dedication and enthusiam. He was a handsome man, but did he have the proverbial it?

Many times you come across a model and it takes more than a pretty face to bring it to life. With his last bit of money, Markiss boarded the bus just to come to New York to shoot with me (after talking with many other photographers), I was one of the lucky ones that he graced with his presence. He was warm, friendly and inviting. He took direction well and when he turned it on, he turned it COMPLETELY on.

Before all is said and done, Markiss Dentmond will be to the modeling world as Tyson Beckford was in his heyday. Be on the look out.

Markiss, the world is waiting for you and the world needs you.

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

Model:  Markiss Dentmond

CELESTINO OVERDRIVE

The second editorial I shot in January was for the designer Sergio of Celestino Couture http://www.celestinocouture.com/. His amazing creations can be seen on the runways of the major fashion shows as well as wellknown celebrities. His designs are based on architectural finesse and the free flowing movement of fabric. Nothing is ever duplicated and to watch their garments in motion is a work of art. Up and coming New York stylist Butch Johnson approached me about doing a shoot featuring the gowns and dresses of Celestino. He was familiar with their clothing from a previous shoot with Australian photographer George Favios http://www.georgefavios.com/. I was enamoured to say the least (when in all honesty, I just wanted some Celestino hotness in my portfolio - If George Favios can, then why can't I? - We then set out upon doing a wonderful story featuring these lovely creations. Casting calls went out, hairsylist were sought, jewelry was to be found. North Carolina hairstylist Tim Johnson http://www.timjohnsoninternational.com/ flew up to provide wonderful hair designs, jewelry makers Lisa Grant http://www.lisagrant.com/ and Adha Zelma http://www.adhazelma.com/ provided striking jewelry. Make up was completed by Damion Girado and Wendy Levene of Red Models http://www.rednyc.com/ provided the beautiful models that brought these gowns to life! Thank you Estella Amara, Callanne Wolfe, Elle King and Anna S of Red Model Management.

Model:  Elle King of Red Models

Model:  Anna S of Red Models

Model:  Estella Amara of Red Models

Model:  Callanne Wolff of Red Models

UNSIGNED BEAUTIES

I was approached by Nuovo Magazine for an editorial submission called "Unsigned Beauties" faces just under the radar. It was an interesting concept that the publisher wanted to showcase four males in their natural beauty. I teamed up with Michael Stallings of Untitled, Inc. a New York based stylist from Florida, he brought on board Shadow, the owner and designer of Black Ice Jewel www.blackicejewel.com to provide the necklaces and bracelets for the shoot.

It was an interesting pairing of models to pull this project together, because beauty, as they say, is in the eye of the beholder. After going back and forth with the Publisher of Nuovo, we settled on four unique models and in their uniqueness, what they were able to bring to the table:

Edwin Perriot:
Model:  Edwin Pierrot



Zenith Pimentel:
Model:  Zenith Pimentel




Yemi Willson:
Model:  Yemi Willson



Courtney Smalls:
Model:  Courtney Smalls



Unsigned Beauties (In Black and White)


I will keep you posted. I don't think they will be unsigned for much longer.