Monday, April 6, 2009

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO ME - TWO YEARS AND COUNTING...

Destiny /ˈdɛstəni/ noun, plural -nies. The predetermined, usually inevitable or irresistible, course of events.

There was an actual series of events that led to me being an active, professional photographer. These events molded and shaped my life to where I am today. Incredible forces and influences shaped my style of photography and change and growth.

December 2006 I made a vow that I would learn how to simply operate a SLR correctly. I've always been into photography and I've always enjoyed photography since I was in highschool. I would save my money and buy the most expensive camera that I could afford (and all the while the button never left AUTO) and I was ignorantly bliss for years. Remember those moments of low light when you took an image and the shutter stayed open? You thought something was wrong with your camera? Well, that was yours truly.

During this time I owned a Nikon E5700 where I would take it on trips around the world... It's been to Germany, Italy, London, Australia, Hawaii. I loved this little camera. No fuss, no muss. However, I was not a photographer at the time, just a man with a camera. I started using it to photograph people (nothing special, just something to enjoy)... Then (as destiny saw to it), the camera died. I was heart broken. And because of that, I purchased my very first DSLR (at this point, I have approximately four film cameras in my apartment) a Sony A100. Once I purchased this camera my life changed. I didn't have that camera very long. I quickly upgraded to a Canon 5D.

I am a pretty intelligent man and over the years I've purchased many many books on the subject of cameras and photography. I would sit with the camera in my lap and try to figure out Fstops and shutter speeds and for the life of me it was all Greek, however, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay in the back of the recesses of my brain, it retained all these tiny nuggets of information awaiting to be released and once it was, I was a force to be reckoned with.

In April of 2007 a really good friend of mine (fashion photographer, Sean Toussaint) came to my rescue. I went to him asking for lessons and the first words out of his mouth was: "Thank God. I was so sick of you buying these expensive cameras to take pictures on vacation." At that moment, a star was born.

It was simple. Sean and I would meet up once a week and we would have a single lesson each time. With a simple turn of the knob, he showed me the magic of shutter priority, aperture priority, manual!!! Depth of field, Fstops! All the knowledge that I have tried to understand over the years was said in simple English and the floodgates of my mind opened and my mind flooded with all the information that as retained and everything made absolute and complete sense (cue in angelic voices... aaaaaaah). Even Sean was amazed. "Things that would take people weeks to grasp and understand, you've figured out in a half an hour!" So one week we shot only in shutter priority and I would shoot the entire week. Then we would look over the images and discussed them. The following week would be aperture priority. Each week was a new and fascinating way to use my camera and then my life was forever changed. I am eternally grateful that this man has opened my eyes to the magic of photography.

Here is the very first photo I've taken when I learned how to operate my camera:

Model:  Dremmler Desil

and

Model:  Dremmler Desil

When it comes to photography, photographers are moved by other photographers in their growth and development and I was no different. I am constantly wanting to change and grow as an artist and technician in my craft. More often than not, once I've mastered a particular look or lighting I immediately become bored with it, hence, me pushing forward to study the next best thing. Through my journey, I've come across many photographers that took the time to teach and show me things and you will see their influence in my work.

Maya Guez
This amazing photographer hails from Israel and her talents and skills are breathtaking. Her usage of color, composition and ideas are staggering and her images do two things (a) makes you go "how does she do this?" and (b) leaves you wanting more. She's done everything from actors to famous singers. I came across a beautiful image that Ms. Guez shot of a model named Obi and it was as if Obi was dipped in a deep rich chocolate... I had to know how this was done. I contacted Maya and she was gracious enough to share information with me. At this point, my life began changing.

http://www.mayaguezphoto.com/

Her influence:
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My work:
Model:  Loa - Salute to Maya Guez



Marco Grob
I was introduced to Marco Grob by a good friend of mine, Kam Khan. When you live the life of a photographer, there are two things that you are constantly doing... Shooting and retouching. Most of the time late at night. I've given myself a 2:00am cut off to get to bed. Well one night, around 1:30, I get an instant message from Kam telling me to look at Grob's work. Needless to say, I was up until 4:00am. I've seen him shoot everything from classic beauty to Levi, Adidas and Rolex campaigns. What I've learned from Mr. Grob is usage of different kinds of light. There are situations where I would go: "how would I light something like this?" Mr. Grob was graciously enough to have on his website a "behind the scenes". It opened up my eyes a lot.

http://www.marcogrob.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model:  Kortney (Get Focused Campaign)

Vincent Peters
I came across Vincent Peters when my team and I wanted to do a film noir sort of feel and at the time, he just shot Christina Aguilera for Stephen Webster's jewelry. A simple manipulation of light and plays on shadows has taught me how to light the eyes (and jewelry) just right to achieve masterful effects.

http://vincentpetersphotography.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model: Catherine Frances Scott

Stephen Eastwood
New York based photographer, Mr. Eastwood is masterful at beauty photography and easy to talk to. It was because of Mr. Eastwood that my beauty work has gone to the next level and doing something as simple as taking a beauty dish and spray painting it silver on the inside and placing a mirror at its center. The thing I enjoyed about all the photographers I am presenting to you is this: They don't hide their skills. It's as simple as asking them. If you want to learn something, all you have to do is ask. True, you will never take an image like them, but they have no problems sharing the tools in which you need to make it happen for yourself.

http://www.stepheneastwood.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model:  May Satch

Lope Navo
By far, one of the most amazing photographers on the male form. Through him I learned out to light the male body with a mixture of flash and sunlight. Because of him, I will always be a learning photographer. He recently released a beautiful coffee table book tentatively entitled: Weapons of Mass Destruction

http://navostudios.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model:  Daniel Norell

Rick Day
Noted for his white wall desaturated photography, Mr. Day has by far influenced more photographers with fashion, lighting and post processing. His work can be seen around the world. Pick up a copy of his new coffee table book: Players

http://www.rickdaynyc.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model:  Daniel Norell

Joel Grimes
One of the "big dogs" based out of Arizona. A very humble, yet amazing photographer shows on his website how he achieved his iconic images. I've reached out to him most recently and because of him, my life is forever changed.

http://www.joelgrimes.com/

His influence:
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My work:
Model:  Goldin

So there you have it. These are my influences at the moment. Who knows who will influence me tomorrow? I just know this. Two years and I am still going strong.

Thank all of you who supported me and saw my talent, skill and vision. There will be more to come.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

DONNA TAYLOR - THE UNLIKELY MODEL

This entry was a long time in the making (at least since the inception of this blog) and I never knew exactly what to talk about when this model came to mind. Mind you, when I first met her, she wasn't a model. She was booker with Ikon Models. She is also officially my first success story. Can I say that I discovered her? I doubt it, but I will let you be the judge of that. I will, however, take credit for launching her career. This model's name is Donna Taylor. She is from Springfield, Ohio (where the hell is that?).

Let me tell you how she and I came to meet. I scheduled a test shoot with her boyfriend at the time (Kent Edwards) and he did the absolute horrible faux pas of asking "can I bring my girlfriend along? Maybe you can get some shots of her." Models, please let me bring something to your attention: never bring another person along on your shoot in hopes a photographer will photograph them. It is unprofessional. It is tacky and it shows a lack of respect. I am soooooo glad he did.

Kent Edwards is a wonderful commercial model based out of New York and he and I were in negotations for a test shoot. When he asked if he can bring his girlfriend along, I of course asked was she a model (at the time the answer was no). He said she was very pretty and I reluctantly said yes. I did, however, asked for a photograph to be emailed to me.

The email arrived and my stylist and I sat in front of my computer to see just what kind of woman would be accompanying Mr. Edwards for his shoot. To sum it up in a single word: hideous. The image was of a young girl wearing a black hoody with her face twisted up in a comical grimace for the camera. The scenery could've been anyone of your franchised restaurants (think TGIF, Ruby Tuesdays, etc.) I turned to my stylist and said, "what the hell are we going to do with her?" He replied sardonically, "it's your shoot" and walked away unimpressed.

They arrived to my studio, Saturday, July 27th. It was a beautiful summer day. Emerging from the car was Kent and he extended his hand to help out his girlfriend. In a word, she was stunning. At that point I really didn't want to shoot Kent. It was all about his girlfriend.

We did a simple beauty shoot. No bells no whistles, but her command of the camera was amazing. She took direction and criticism very well. We also did some GAP like black and white photos. She knew her limitations and she knew that she would never be anyone's supermodel and she knew that she would never be the new face for Burberry, but she is a great commercial find.

She was even comfortable shooting nudes (at least with me)...

I have to say, she was an absolute rare find. From that shoot she's booked quite a few jobs. To date, she's booked Palmer's Skin Care, Sephora, Benefit Cosmetics, Lancome Cosmetics. Essence Magazine, Modern Salon Magazine, Rockefeller Plaza, Coca Cola/Walmart Commercial, Divine Bradley Collection, Clearvision Optical, Harlem 125, John Legend's Video "Everybody Knows" and "Confessions of a Shopaholic" motion picture. To say that Donna is a busy bee would be an understatement.


So, Donna, are you currently a full time model?
It's becoming that way. I've been averaging about 6 castings a week

How did you land the Palmer's campaign?
I heard that they were looking for women, so I submitted the new images that you had just shot of me. This was a MAJOR casting and all the top agencies were working on it, so I didn't think I had a chance. They called me into audition, and I didn't even have a comp card. I got extremely nervous and decided 10 minutes before that I wasn't going. My coworker insisted that I suck it up, so I stood in from of a panel of 6 in my bikini (sooo not in shape) while the photographer took snapshots and videotaped me. I left relieved..but didn't think there was a chance in hell I had gotten it; I saw some of the names on the sign in sheet and knew I couldn't compete with them. A week went by and they called to tell me I booked the job!

Now that you are on the “other side” of the industry. Do you feel different towards models, now that you are one?
I haven't gotten used to being referred to as a "model." I have sympathy for the girls now that I'm running all around town trying to juggle a hectic schedule and still meet with demanding clients.

How was it shooting the "Everybody Knows" video? Tell us how you landed that job.
The John Legend video was fun. I saw it come through on "Breakdowns" which is a system agents use to submit talent. There was a role for real couples, so I submitted myself and Kent. We went to the audition and they loved us together. I'm good friends with John and his brothers, so being on set was great because I got to hang out with them all day. People tease me and think that John hand selected me, or someone set it up...but we really auditioned just like everyone else. It was an honest coincidence.

If there was anything you can change about the modeling industry (from your point of view, of course), what would it be?
Wow....there's a lot I would change. I feel sorry for these girls that go through the mental anguish of trying to live up to unrealistic expectations. I could go deeper into the psychological aspect, but I'll refrain til next time.

Are there any models that you look up to?
It was never a dream of mine to model, so I didn't follow the lives of anyone inparticular. However, when I was younger, I loved Supermodel Niki Taylor. She has always been so naturally beautiful and full of personality.

What is the hardest thing you ever had to do being a model?
I did a live body painting at Club Duvet. I was up on stage naked while and artist painted all over me. I was really nervous at first, but after standing in the same position for an hour until my body went tumb....I didn't care anymore, I just wanted to go home.

Are there any photographers (living or dead) that you would love to shoot with?
Doesn't every girl want to be shot by Annie Leibovitz and Bruce Weber?

If you had a chance to do it all again, would you have still shot with Dallas?
Uh....YEAH! Dallas is THE MAN!!!!!

Complete this phrase. Modeling to me is….
... A form of self expression and escape.


Model:  Donna
My all-time favorite pic. This image was my very first one, and has been my money maker.

Model:  Donna
I love this image because I amost look "Angelic". It shows my curves and my face looks sweet.

Model:  Donna Taylor
This image is hottt! Love my mouth and the gaze in my eyes

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This was my first tear sheet with Benefit/Sephora

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My first major job...which was shot about a week after Dallas took my first headshot

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

SEAN SMITH - NEW FACE ON A SUBWAY.

Oh my God. Can I say that again? Oh my God. One more time. OH. MY. GOD. Now that I've gotten that out of my system, I can continue.

I vowed that when I started this blog, I would do my damnedest to update it at least once a week. I had visions of a calm Sunday evening with my favorite herbal tea, typing away my weekly anecdotes for those of you who actually take the time to read them. Witty sayings, insightful outlooks, fond memories. Nice, right? Well needless to say, my LAST post was a month ago about the illustrious Mr. Bermudez. I don't have to say it, but I've dropped the proverbial ball.

This past month has been filled with campaign shoots, cattle calls, castings, scoutings, magazine shoots, new faces, old faces, bad faces and good faces. So in between my hectic scheduling of my 9 to 5 (yes, I am STILL working a 9 to 5, President Obama hasn't handed me my bailout check yet) and having shoots, Dallas has been a very busy man. Thus, the "Oh my God" statement at the opening of this blog.

I guess a lot of you are now saying; "Okay, Dallas, get to the point. What tasty morsel can I get from this entry?" Well, I will get to that. I just wanted to justify why this entry was a loooooooooooooong time coming.

Cattle Call:
What is a cattle call, you may ask. My crew and I totally understand the downturn of our econcomic enviroment. We took it upon ourselves to offer a portfolio building special. You would receive a complete professional photoshoot with hair, makeup, styling and retouching all for 200.00. How my crew and I walked away with any money is we had to book a lot of people for the day. When I say a lot, we got a lot. I had the shoot two weeks ago and I am still editing photos. I am not complaining, it is part of the job. The sad thing would've been if NO ONE turned out for the event. So, my crew walked away with a little money, the models walked away with some photos and we are building our reputation out there putting out a good product. The reason we call it a "cattle call" is; once I posted the flyer for this special, EVERYONE came out the woodwork. Everyone. Were there any modeling gems in that call? Could be. You will have to wait and find out, now won't you?

Nuovo Magazine:
While that was going on, Mr. Duval (Editor-In-Charge of Nuovo Magazine) places a wonderful nugget in my lap. He informed me that the last shoot I did for him (The Unsigned Beauty) was a success (personally, I don't know what is meant by that), but he did say that the pictorial was well received, to the point that people wanted to know if it will be showcased again. Mr. Duval asked me if I would do it again. And not only do it again, but make it a monthly addition to his magazine. That was an incredible shot in the arm. He gave me complete carte-blanche over the models, the story line, the photos. All I have to do is meet his monthly deadline. So, of course, me getting this information mid-month, I had to do castings and locate models worthy of that title. Be on the lookout for it in Nuovo magazine (www.nuovomag.com).

JS Dirty International:
JS Dirty International is an underwear line put out by designer/model/photographer Jeffrey Salomon. It is a new line with sexy under wear (both tops and bottoms) for men and women. The line is approximately a year or so old and can already be found in fine boutiques. Mr. Salomon approached me about shooting his new campaign and he wanted it done like very sexy slumber party. Guess what? More castings. More meetings. More shootings. We've already received a two page spread advertisement in next months Bleu Magazine. Be on the look out for that and I will be showing images in the future.

Whew. I think I've covered just about everything that has taken place in the past month. But trust me when I say that I will go into explicit details in the future with all the above mentioned shoots. The good, the bad and the ugly of it all. But let's get down to the reason for this blog.

Sean Smith - Subway Model:
I've discussed in a previous blog (Gatekeeper to the Gods) that we (we meaning people in the modeling/fashion industry) are always on the lookout for the next best face. The new Tyson, the new Kate, the new Naomi. We all want to take the credit of "discovering" the next new face. Some photographers have some unbelievable luck at doing so (think Shameer Khan, think Tarrice Love). They have the ability of walking into a fastfood restaurant, a clothing store, a laundromat and finding that fresh new face. I, alas, don't possess that kind of magic and I often wanted to know why.

When you get into photography, you sometimes have to separate your photographer's eye from your personal eye and look at people in a plain and simple state. There are a lot of good looking men and women out there, but not all of them can be models. They just don't have that "it" factor that will translate to the fashion industry. It could be something as simple as having too short of a neck. Looks are pretty, but pedestrian. Eyes may be too close together. They may be a little too fleshy. Needless to say, something is "off" and not necessarily in a bad way. Just the way God's genetics have put them together to say "I cannot make you too perfect, so here is YOUR imperfection." And once you've placed your personal eye aside (which is the first eye that is always used), you start looking with your photographer's eye and you quickly realize that people start falling far from the mark.

However, there does come a time when you are in the right place at the right time and you do come across that face that maybe.... just maybe has the it factor. You sized it up with your personal eye and then you put on your photographer's eye. Height? Check. Weight? Check. Proportions? Check. Looks? Check. They seemed to be in order. Then you have to go deeper. Eye spacing? Check. Ear placement? Check. Cheek bones, jaw line, neck to shoulder ratio, the list can go on and on and all of these check points have to happen within nanoseconds, because you may be in a situation where you have to take the bull by the horns and make that move and approach this person, or are you going to say nevermind.

I always found myself to be the nevermind character. I was never one to approach a person in the streets. I've been fortunate enough to have models come search me out, however, as of late, I do carry my portfolio around whereever I go, because I never want to be in a situation of approaching a potential model and say; "I think you have a great look. I would love to photograph you." For some this approach may work, for me, I feel as if I am a perveted pedophile. Now, if I come across a face that I like, I can produce my portfolio (and/or compcard) and say "hi, I am a photographer. Have you ever thought about modeling before?" And for the first time, ladies and gentlemen, I did just that. I approached my first new face. Some of you may not agree, but I know one thing: this is my first step into this arena, so as my photographer's eye gets better, my models may as well, but first time out the box, I must say I am pleased.

Picture this: January 21, 2009 I am coming from a magazine photoshoot and I am on a photographer's high. For those of you who don't understand this, it comes when you have this amazing shoot. Everything was perfect. The model(s), the makeup, the styling, the hair, the lighting and the magic of the whole shoot just comes together. You leave the studio floating. You want to go and just look at the images over and over again, because you know you've recorded hotness. Well, it was exactly that feeling I had when I went home from this shoot. As I stepped on the Manhattan bound L train, I scanned the train for a seat and I see a young black male with a hoodie on his head. As I get on the train, he glances up to see the subway stop. It was only an instant, but wait, did I see piercing eyes? Did I see chisled features? Did I see cheekbones? I don't know. He put his head back down and the hoodie draped his face in complete darkness. In that one instant my entire high was blown because now the photographer's eye has taken over and I wanted to make sure that I saw what I thought I saw. What happens most times is you see someone in a glance, and you think it will be something good, and then you get a second appreciative look and you go; "nevermind." I was between the first glance and the second appreciative look and all I could do is wait for him to raise his head. And I waited.

This was a first for me. I took out my portfolio and a compcard and I waited patiently. I positioned myself on the train so if and when (please be when) he looked up, I could get a full view of his face and by the grace of God, the next subway stop, he looked up and I was able to get a full long look at his face and yes, in the second look, I was able to determine his features in that nanosecond. He glanced up, looked at the subway, glanced at me and then proceeded to put his head down.

Now I think I better put in some of the other elements into play, because this is playing out like a scene from the Matrix franchise. As if no one else was on the train, and everything was in suspended animation. No, that wasn't the case at all. I wasn't alone. I was with the stylist from the shoot, my assistant, a model and a few other people. We were all high from the shoot and were talking. This eventually prompted the young man to raise his head and look at all of us. My assistant noticed my photographer's eye go into play and I said "I like his look." At that point my assistant approached him with my portfolio. His name? Sean Smith.

He looked at my portfolio and was very unimpressed. Most people outside of the industry would be. You would say "nice pictures." Which is what he said. He also said "I am not a model."

"You have a great look. I would love to photograph you." I can say this now, because I had my book in hand. He took my card and I thought to myself: well, at least I tried.

One month later (literally). I received an email stating: "You may not remember me, but I am the guy you met on the train. I am not a model but if you want to take some pictures, I'm down." I had him in the studio the very next day.

Now at this point I was able to take full grasp of his looks. 6 feet tall, approximately 160lbs, chiseled features. Everything I saw on the train was correct. Great features, good eyes, great proportions. Now, what is he like in front of the camera?

In a phrase: he NAILED it. He was so comfortable in front of the camera, it prompted me to ask; "have you ever done this before?" He responded with a shaking of the head and said "no."

We continued to a point I said, "Don't have me shop these pictures around and people say to me 'Dallas, you don't know who this is?'" Needless to say, he had an incredible connection with the camera, he photographed well and wore clothing well.

I can't promise that he will become the next supermodel and I can't promise that you will ever see him again, but if I have my way, you most certainly will.

Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you... Sean Smith.

New Model?  Sean Smith

New Model?  Sean Smith

New Model?  Sean Smith

New Model?  Sean Smith

P.S. I promise to be more diligent with my entries.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

WHEN YOU WORK WITH YEIKOV YOU NEVER HAVE TO ASK Y...

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And I will tell you why! New York's Yeikov Bermudez's work is eclectic, exciting, thought provoking, striking, rich, steamy, hot, colorful, playful, sensual, sexy. And this is all going on in ONE FACE.

To see his work, his signature style is legendary. You would only have to see it once, and you would never forget it. He makes it a point never to repeat anything twice, so if you come to him and ask, you may get flip of the neck, a wave of a hand and a dazzling smile, but you won't get the same exact makeup creation. However, when he is done with you, you won't be disappointed. To him each face speaks to him in a series of lines, angles and complexions. To ask him why he does what he does, he may answer with a "why not?"

I've been trying to work with Yeikov (sounds like "jerk off" but with a Y), and finally our planets aligned. I was told by my agent that I needed to "upgrade" my beauty so I could be shopped to a higher clientele, I thought of no one I wanted to work with more than Mr. Bermudez. He is easy going, a team player and most of all, he understands the market place and what is needed to make something come alive (he also does amazing hair). All make up artists can put on eyeliner, blush, lipstick and mascara, however, when Yeikov does it, it like watching a Piscasso masterpiece being born. Visit his work and each and every time you will go "damn!!!! How does he do it?" Well, ladies and gentlemen, he is about to tell us how.

So don't ask Why can't I get some Y! Just get it and you will never have to ask why again.

Yeikov can be reached at

What made you get into the make up game?

So a Game is what we call it now, ha? Well this is no game to me. But to answer your question, my story is kind of different. I was discovered by another amazing make up artist Mitch Rosado in my hometown of Puerto Rico. I was 14 and he said that I had a lot of potential. I had the honor and the pleasure of assisting him and in the beginning I was very reluctant but the curiosity had more willpower and I went on to discover the power of makeup. I discovered the drug that ruled my life, since then I’M hooked.

Who were some of your major influences in this business?

After I've learned a little bit from him and from some of my other friends, I was very influence by Thierry Mugler. I know you’re asking yourself Thiery Mugler isn’t he a fashion designer? I don't follow. Well let me explain. I have always been interested in painting, drawing, comics and fashion - amongst other things and one of my favorite designers that was happening at that time was him and I felt that he was a revolutionary in his craft in bringing the world of makeup and fashion together. So I was very inspired by him and the way his creations mixed with makeup. Even when the faces were “clean” you could still see the elaborate makeup. I also went to school of fashion design and I had to study many other designers like Gianni Versace, Vivian Westwood, Jean Paul Gautier, Galiano, Gucci and Yamamotho. Like others, I was always looking for inspirations to express myself in a different way. Now I look more into everybody and everything that surrounds me and I find inspiration for me somehow. I try to meet as many people as possible in the industry of fashion, makeup and photography and to be part of different creations and I think in the art of photography and makeup is where I can stamp my “name” using makeup for other people to see and to get inspired by as well. I think other people can inspire me when they make their own art.

If you could only take one makeup brand with you on a deserted island, what would it be and why?

Damn, why this question? It is so hard to make a choice. I don't marry any one company because for me makeup is makeup and I have things in my kit things that range from 99¢ to $150.00. Personally, I believe that is not the product, it’s what you can do with it. In this business I have done makeup from weddings which is all about beauty in a very real way to commercial to theater to photography to body paint so I cannot choose only one company cause it depends on the job that I have to do and if you know what that product can do for you, you can use the product to your benefit. But to answer your question (laughs) I would have to say MAKEUP FOR EVER. Why? Well as for now they are coming with the newest foundations for today’s technology. For example television – even High Definition, print, fashion, theater and everyday wear.

Name any model (dead or living) that you would love to paint and why?

Wow these are very hard questions, whats up with that, Dallas? Do you have a whole day to read the list of all the models that I would want to work with? (laughs) Dead and alive… hmmm. My favorite models of all time are LindaEvangelista (the true chameleon of fashion), Naomi, Tyra , Cindy, Grace Jones, Andrea Lima - should I continue? Why? Well where do I start? FIERCENESSSS!!!!! (multiple S is deliberate). Can we talk about celebrity as well? Aaaah and what happen to the new generation of models. I work with everybody and anybody, babe, and for me it’s all about creating and models are only part of the work. There is also the story behind the shoot for me to do my work.

Your makeup has been called "over-the-top". Do you agree or disagree? And why?

That is great, it doesn't matter if it’s called “over-the-top” or not. At least I’m FINALLY getting some recognition (laughs). But what is up with all the labelism? It’s great that I had been called “over-the-top” but let me ask you: Have you ever heard of someone that doesn’t do things "over-the-top" become recognized?

I think that is my personality (smiles and touches his hand to his chest). I have done things from brides to over-the-top makeup in this industry. I’ve also worked at a makeup counter for many years which let me appreciated different aspects of makeup. So, I think that for me it’s more about creating what is expected from me and at all times adding just a little bit of me in the mix. With the personality of my clients and the idea of what is behind it. For me is not about the makeup anymore, I am nothing without models and photographers and art directors and stylists and hair stylists. I feel that it is more teamwork from brides (that sometimes can be obnoxious if if you don't know how to deal with them [laughs]) to very high-end professionals that also have more stress because of deadlines. What I’m trying to say here is this: I have worked with many people and I guess I had post my more “interesting” work around and besides that, it’s part of who I am - so I put part of me as much as possible you know? I have a different philosophy on life so I enjoy what I do as much as I can in different ways but I think this is the best way that I want to be recognized and rememebered in the world by being different and putting in my 2 cents. Why only do simple work when there is another world I can mix with it? I want to be recognized by my work so when you see it in a magazine, video, model or celebrity you will KNOW that I did it! It’s like putting a signature to it. For me it’s all about the experience of working with as many people as possible and giving a little bit of myself, you know? I think that I love to create and when I meet a team that trusts me enough to let me express myself within the parameters of the job is when I can give it my all. But some people may see it as “over-the-top” and I'm cool with that, but what they don't know is what is happening in my head at that precise moment. I think it creates more pressure for me to be better and each model (canvas) is different so it’s more of an adjustment of the idea with the hair, the model with the makeup. That’s the real trick.

I will put it like this: it is my name that is out there and I’m hoping that the work is good enough to be accepted by others in a good or bad way, again most of my work is about the art, the editorial which is great. It is kind of like saying I think I have a couple of personalities like John Galiano who is in charge of two clothing houses, Christian Dior and his own clothing label and both of them are completely different but you still know that both of them are the same at the end and he still works with fabric and creating for everyday wear and more couture so in my case its all about makeup

If there was one thing you can change about the makeup industry what would it be?

I would love for women to embrace the use of more color freely, instead of trying to be natural at all times. Woman have the advantage when it comes to clothing, hair and makeup and I feel that they are not getting the best of it. They choose to be plain and simple when they can be gorgeous at all time. I'm not asking that every woman out there spend an hour on their look but you can do eyeliner and lipstick today, mascara and lip gloss tomorrow and choose so many combinations to look different. When it comes to men we are completely screwed because we can only be sport, elegant or casual and we only have pants and shirts to wear - when woman have an immense variety of clothing and accessories to choose from.

What is the most embarrassing thing that has ever happened to you (with regards to makeup)?

I used to work at a makeup counter for five years and this one time a bride came in to have her makeup done by me. It was the first time that we met and she had heard about me and I asked her where she was going and she said “I'm going to a wedding.” So I did the routine questions of what she would be wearing and she said she was wearing white. She didn't speak too much and she was very quiet. When I was finished with her makeup I made the comment “Oh my God! You look fierce! The bride is going to hate you! You look stunning!” and she turns to me and says “what you mean that the bride is going to hate me? I AM THE BRIDE!”

For me that was one of the most embarrassing moments because I had to do her face all over again even though she loved the makeup that I did, I had to explain to her that the previous application was more for someone to attend the weeding - not for the bride-to-be. She ended up loving the Bride makeup for sure and she completely understood the difference. Whew!

Finish this phrase. Make up to me is....

Makeup to me is my HUSBAND, WIFE, LOVER, LIVE, HOBBY, WORK. In other words makeup for me is everything and then some.

It most certainly is, Y, it most certainly is.

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Model: Jamila
Hair: Anatalia Fernandez
Photographer: Y? Creations


This picture is very special to me in many ways. I know this model and I know who she is as a person and she is beautiful in the inside as well as the outside and here I only accentuated her beauty like her eyes and lips and skin. The beautiful thing about it this is that this model is only 15 and i think i was able to immortalize her age and make this picture timeless. If I didn’t tell you her age, you might not look at the picture again or you might. But that is the point of it I did create beauty without losing the model and for me she is a chameleon which brings my work to life.

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Model: Cari Braxton
Stylist: Keva
Photographer: Zephyr for Zeo Productions


Working with her was an an amazing experience. The photographer give me all liberty of what to do in the makeup. She mentioned that she wanted it all over the top and for me to be as wild as I want it to be. The wadrobe that was made by Keva. Even though the makeup here is over the top, I think that everything fits in place without overpowering one another and the model is was fierce that she can handle the make up and then some. She made my work so easy and the vibe here was fierce!

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Model: Amber Rivera
Stylist: Butch Johnson
Photographer: Dallas J. Logan


Hmmmmm… Let them Have it Ms.Amber! To this date this is one of my most awesome team projects. Wee were there to create some FIERCENESS in the house and everybody was ON POINT! It was so awesome. Butch Johnson worked his magic with the clothing and she LIVED IT! I just followed what was there and did what I had to do. I did my things for sure (laughs) I loved this and of course Dallas lit it and captured it exquisitely. So what more to said? Ahhh the behind the scene on this is awesome. ;')


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Model: Lymarie
Styling/Photography: Sta'fon Shamayim


So here is when my mind goes to another planet. This photographer pushes my limits to a level that i cannot explain. The way he see fashion is brilliant! He knows what he wants and he styles it his on way but he he shows me a picture and says “Yeikov this is your inspiration with this clothing and accesories. This is Lymarie and she will rock this out. Do your thing.” Ok do I really need to tell you how was my experience on this one? I think I would write waaaaay too much. What can I say? I love my work ;')


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Model: Anya
Stylist: Truman
Photographer: Laretta Houston


Ok here is another HALLARATION! I LIVE FOR THIS! This picture is what will describe my personality the most. This for me was a very real and BRILLIANT! Each time that I can reunite with a team like this is just a mind-blowing creation I beleive that you put three different minds that collide with each other without overpowering one another - combining a little bit of everything is a mixture of control and de-control in its usage of the words passion, elegnace mystery, glamour, edge versatility, fashion sexuality and sensuality. This picture represents a style and again was another special work that when all the pices came together the magic just flowed. It is always a pleasure working with Laretta Houston. Her mind is a Panodra Box. She, like me, is very visiual and she wants to capture something hot with the model in a Fashion way. She will ask for you to please her in a very extraordinary manner, She has a book of ideas that she works at all time so from there she picks her next shoot, then she comunicates the idea to Mr Truman who has an amazing mind when it comes to fashion and with his exquisite mind he brings the clothing and accesories to make the shoot happen and he know how much is enough for the idea. Anya was just in her element wjem she said to me; “Yeikov whatever you do I will sell it to you. Put as much makeup as you want. You know I know you will. Do your thing.” I came here cause I live for you was the thought in my head “Ok I’m just going to let your face speak to me and I will stop when is done.” I’m not sure when is that but I will, and I just let mind flow.


Thursday, February 12, 2009

BOOKERS - THE GATEKEEPERS TO THE GODS

Model:  Kendy Almy

There is a definite hierarchy in the modeling industry. Every model wants to be the new face of a product (be it clothing, perfume, sports drink). Every booker wishes to be the one to discover that new face, and ultimately every photographer wishes to be the one to capture that image that launched that career. But the bottom line is (or I guess in this instance, the top line is), it is all about what the client wants and in that instance, the client is the God of the industry.

Clients can be very particular in who they want to represent their product. It is never a fly-by-night decision, because millions upon millions of dollars are married to the project of finding the face. There are castings, auditions, panels and sometimes even focus groups. So by the time you saw the billboards and magazine advertisements of Pierre Woods as the new African American face of Ralph Lauren, a lot of behind the scenes maneuvering went on to make that dream a reality.

The artistic/creative director sends out a casting call. Looking for the New Face of [fill in the blanks]. We want him to be this tall, this build, this complexion, this age. They are very specific. They go to all the agencies around the country (and some times around the world) to find this model. Every agency submit their best in hopes of their agency securing the job. Sometimes a rebel agency may submit a model that was not the description needed in hopes that maybe, just maybe the artistic/creative director may see this renegade model and go “hey, wait a minute. THIS IS THE ONE!” This kind of casting goes on everyday from casting for an underwear model, to the faces that grace the runway of any major city Fashion Week.

The entry into this arena are held by a very small, chosen and powerful group of men and women known as the Bookers. They decide who the client will and will not see. They decide who gets picked up and signed to an agency. They decide who they wish to invest their time, energy and resources in. It is a demanding job. It is a very powerful job. It can also be a very narrow-minded position as well.

When it comes to selecting a model, each Booker has in mind what they think should be the “it” face at the time. While Booker A may choose a model that is a little more buff, Booker B will turn that model away for the same exact reason. I’ve seen this happened even within the same agency. It all boils down to the matter of taste. There isn’t a blueprint that a Booker may follow that will determine if a model becomes a signed entity or not, because if that were the case, all the models would look alike and the agencies would look like a microcosmos of Chelsea. There have been times that I’ve submitted some beautiful models to agencies, only to have them say “thanks, but no thanks.” Being a photographer, I don’t have the “Booker” eye. I just see beauty and I just pass the beauty on to the Gatekeepers in hope that they will like the model. One unsigned model I photographed (who is tragically beautiful) was turned down by a major New York agency. I asked why, because this young man wasn’t just beautiful by let’s say New York standards, he was galatically beautiful (even the Martians could not deny this young man looks). The Booker was uninterested. His reasoning? “To femme. My clients would not want to use him.” How did this Booker know that? Does the appearance of this particular model, femme or not negate the ability of him selling a particular item in the right market? Most of the models in the big campaigns are not the most masculine fellows out there. That means, because the Booker didn’t like the model (even though he did agree that the model was indeed beautiful), it turned out not to be his personal taste. Once I understood that, when he did send me models to shoot, I saw a particular pattern of the types of models in which he liked. They were usually urban, rough around the edges, streety and a bit thug like – one model even had gang tattoos on his body and face. So the model I presented to him would have never had a chance, merely because he didn’t fit the criteria for what this particular Booker liked. However, when I saw this model, he could easily be placed in a Dolce & Gabanna campaign, Calvin Klein, Gucci or even Prada. But because he was of delicate nature and not thugged out enough, the Booker had no use for him. Was he good looking? Yes, tragically so. Was he the correct height? Yes. The correct weight? Yes. The correct look? Yes. The correct type? That depends on who you decide to ask. This will be a heated debate for times to come.

I find myself being the unsung hero for the unsigned models that have potential. I know that when I photograph a model and immediately get inquiries, that the model has something. The Booker may not agree to it, but the something cannot be denied. I then personally take it upon myself to advocate for the “turned down” models, because believe me when I say I push and push and push and once the model is signed, and is working, I usually go back the Booker that turned them down and say: “remember so and so? He’s the new face of…. [fill in the blanks]”

Some turned down faces looking for a home. Believe me when I say that it won’t be for long.

Desil:
Dremmler Desil Revisited

Neo:
Neo Cropped Head Shot

Goldin:
Model:  Goldin

Guillaume:
Model: Guillaume

Edwin:
Model:  Edwin Pierrot

Courtney:
Model: Courtney Smalls

Lavante:

Model:  Lavante Isaac

Alexis Jorge:
Model:  Alexis Jorge (AJ)

Boyce:
Model:  Boyce for Durant